I crossed a footbridge over a small tributary of the Vilcanota River and pierced an invisible veil. Leaving behind the sad little town of Machu Picchu Pueblo, devoid of trees and littered with broken down hostels and pizza pubs, I stepped onto the exquisite grounds of Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, where brilliant hummingbirds flitted between orchids and intertwining old-growth trees enfolded the hotel’s whitewashed stone villas.

Pool and villas at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel

Soft light filtered through the cloud forest canopy as I followed the hotel’s representative along serpentine rock paths to my private casita. She threw open the rugged wooden door and stepped aside, revealing an enormous suite with luxury bath, fireplace, sitting area and private balcony. My gaze swept from the rustic wooden beams of the cathedral ceiling down to the king size bed. Salivating at the prospect of sinking into its mountain of pillows and 100% cotton sheets, I quickly thanked her and shut the door.

My gorgeous room at the Inkaterra overlooked lush gardens where tropical birds flitted

Barely had I unlaced my heavy boots and wriggled my toes when someone knocked at my door. “What now?” I wondered. “So sorry miss Barbara, but I thought you might like to see this.” She pointed to to the top of an old telephone next to my villa, where a gorgeous male Golden Olive Woodpecker rat-tat-tatted, determinedly searching for grub. “We don’t see them very often,” she explained, pointing out the female sitting on a nearby wire. It was the first of many kindnesses I experienced during my two days at this heavenly retreat.

Golden Olive Woodpecker showed up outside my cottage door to welcome me

I had learned about the Inkaterra when I received an invitation to a press conference in New York City, where Fodor’s would announce their Top 100 Hotel Awards for 2011. When I replied with regrets, explaining that I was currently traveling in South America, they responded with a list of the five South American properties included among the top 100 and inquired if I was planning to stay at any of them. Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel was among those five. It was too much of a coincidence to ignore.

Because Fodor’s has long been considered a trusted authority on travel, especially with regard to accommodations, I knew the Inkaterra would be a treat, but I could not possibly have anticipated just how exceptional the hotel would be. Already impressed by the attentiveness of the staff, I returned to my spectacular suite and discovered a second surprise: on a table in the far corner a plate of gourmet chocolates and dried fruits awaited. Settling into a chair on my patio, I gorged on chocolate as I looked out over terra cotta roofs topped with ceramic bulls said to bring good fortune and gardens that quivered and twittered with rainbow-colored birds. An hour later, driven by a sugar high, I abandoned any thoughts of a nap and set out to explore. Continue reading →

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