Header image

Category: Africa travel

Ethiopia’s Danakil Depression -The Most Brutal Place on Earth 

The urgent need to pee woke me at 5:30 a.m. I swung my legs over the side of my bamboo cot and gingerly tested my right ankle, which I’d twisted the previous day on a loose rock. It was much better, but I wasn’t taking any chances in the rock-strewn landscape. Carefully, I…

Read More

One Vegetarian’s Tale of an Ethiopian Food Disconnect

I LOVE Ethiopian cuisine. I was first introduced to it 12 years ago, in Tanzania. I took one bite of Injera, the spongy, sourdough flatbread that Ethiopians use to scoop up everything on their plate, and was immediately hooked. Not only is Injera delicious, it’s made with fermented teff flour, which is milled…

Read More

The Magnificent Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia

Imagine being a slave in Ethiopia during the 12th and 13th century reign of King Lalibela. Now imagine being handed a chisel, hammer, and an axe, and told to carve a three-story high church out of solid rock. Inconceivable, certainly. But when you consider that the King actually completed construction of the 11…

Read More

Rebirth on the Nile: Sailing on a Traditional Dahabiya with Nour El Nil

A fat bumble bee lumbered across the stern of our boat. He circled a few times before realizing the yellow rope and orange life preserver weren’t flowers, then turned and headed back to the island where we were anchored. A black and white Kingfisher crossed his path, gliding impossibly close to the blue-green…

Read More

Surviving the Touts at the Temples and Tombs of Luxor, Egypt

I looked up from my yogurt and fresh fruit just as a wonderfully strange bird landed on the low wall around the rooftop of Beit Sabee Guest House. The Hoopoe is a fairly common bird in Egypt, but I’d never seen anything like it. His red-crested head swept backward to a perfect point,…

Read More

Best of Morocco Tours: A Review of “Mugical Morocco”

The first clue that things might not go smoothly in Morocco was when no one from Mugical Morocco, the operator of my Best of Morocco tour, met me at the Casablanca airport. Since I would be a guest of the company during the 17-day tour, I did not even know the name of…

Read More