If I wanted to stuff my face with Karamel Korn and funnel cakes, have my photo taken while sitting in the Dukes of Hazard General Lee car, play a round of putt putt golf in the world’s most interactive black light golf course, or attend any one of a dozen honky-tonk song and dance shows, Gatlinburg would be my perfect vacation destination. A veritable carnival midway designed to empty pockets and fill stomachs, this Tennessee city is definitely not my cup of tea.

Gatlinburg caters to the tourist with a carnival-like atmosphere

Yet standing in stark contrast to Gatlinburg’s crass commercialism, the surrounding countryside overflows with natural beauty. Just a few miles east, the Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River flows beneath a verdant green canopy, creating miniature white-water rapids as it deftly dodges protruding boulders. Tired from its descent, the river rests, becoming a mirror-smooth green pool. Some unknown visitor has painstakingly balanced rocks in these placid waters – a flock of birds feeding in the dusk. As daylight fades and temperatures drop, mist rises from the sun-warm water, curling around the stone birds. I hold my breath, afraid they will fly away if I make the slightest sound.

Middle Fork of the Little Pigeon River

Stone birds rest in a placid green pool

Tonight, in this enchanted cabin on the banks of Middle Prong, I am lulled to sleep by the tumbling creek and raindrops that have just begun to patter on the roof. It is hard to believe that I am anywhere near Gatlinburg.