Head Over Heels in Love With Split, Croatia

Peristyle, the main square inside Diocletian's Palace

Four months. Fourteen countries. Fifty different destinations. By the time I reached Sarajevo I was exhausted. I’d accomplished my goal of visiting all seven of the ex-Yugoslavian countries plus Albania, but poor Croatia had been given short shrift earlier in the summer. Rather than battle high-season crowds and a record-breaking heat wave at the seashore, … Read more

A Politically Incorrect Tour of Mostar and Southwest Bosnia-Herzegovina

The UNESCO World Heritage village of Pocitelj, with its historic mosque and hilltop fortress

Miran, owner of Miran Hostel, is an angry man. “I am not politically correct and you will not like a lot of what I say,” he announced as we climbed into his van for a tour of Mostar and southwest Bosnia-Herzegovina. He slammed the sliding door shut and popped a Bosnian folk rock DVD into … Read more