This Roman Amphitheater in Durres, Albania, is the largest ever found in the Balkans. It was discovered near the city center by a farmer who was plowing his fields. The port of Durres was part of The Egnatian Way, a vital trade route that connected Rome with Byzantium, and is likely the reason that a … Read more
My plan for the summer had been to tour all seven of the countries that once composed Yugoslavia. I was close to meeting that goal, having visited five of the seven, but my last minute decision to visit Lake Ohrid, Macedonia put me so close to Albania that I could have walked there. While never … Read more
Sweeping view of the city of Kruja Albania from the National Skanderbeg Museum. Kruja (Krujë) was the first capital of the autonomous state of Albania in 1190, and later became the capital of the Kingdom of Albania. The city was conquered by Ottomans early in the 15th century but liberated by the national hero Skanderberg … Read more
View over Kruje, Albania, from an old stone terrace next to the Dollma Teqe. Built in 1789, this ancient mosque on the grounds of Kruja (Krujë) Castle, belongs to the Sufi order of the Bektashi. Once banned by the Ditator Hoxha, today the sect is once again allowed to worship. I had tea in the … Read more
The front desk clerk at my hotel didn’t hesitate a moment when I asked if she could recommend a good restaurant in Tirana. “Oda Restaurant,” she said. “You will love it.” Off I went, without even asking what type of cuisine they served. My GPS soon showed that I was close. I was debating whether … Read more
