Marseille wasn’t on my original itinerary. After touring chateau of the Loire Valley and exploring Bordeaux I planned to visit Toulouse and St. Girons in the French Pyrenees, but there was a problem. Bad weather had been following me around France. I’d had one lovely sunny day in Mont Saint Michel and another one in Tours, but the rest of the time it either was gray and chilly or it rained. The foul weather had been bearable in October, but by November the temps had dropped and rain that had been an inconvenience turned bone-chilling.
The beauty of traveling nomadically is that I have no fixed schedule and can change my plans on a whim. I whipped out the laptop and Googled a map of France, looking for warmer destinations. Far south, in the heart of the French Riviera, Marseille stood out like a beacon. Wikipedia told me that the average high temperature in November was 59.2 degrees, and the more I read about Marseille, the more intrigued I became. I hopped over to the website for SNCF, the French National Railway Company, and discovered that high-speed TGV trains ran directly between Bordeaux and Marseille. Now I only had to find a place to stay. A final web search turned up Vertigo Vieux-Port Hostel, centrally located in the old port area, within walking distance of restaurants, the central market, marina, and the famous Notre Dame de la Gare church. The reviews looked fantastic and the price was right at $31 per night for a four-bed female dorm with ensuite bathroom. The planets had aligned; I was Marseille bound. A couple of quick telephone calls later I had train ticket and a reservation for the next two nights.
I fell in love with Marseille immediately. My hostel was located a short stroll from Le Vieux Port (Old Port), once an international hub where goods arrived from and were exported around the world. By the late 19th century, ocean-going ships had grown so large that the 20 foot depth of the harbor was no longer sufficient. A new commercial port with deeper docks, La Joliette, was constructed to the north and Le Vieux Port gradually evolved into a city marina.
Le Vieux Port is the heart of Marseille and the hub of tourist activity. As the largest port in France, Marseille has always attracted immigrants; today the city is a multi-cultural mix of French, Italians, Russians, Armenians, Africans, Corsicans, Algerians, Greeks, and even Americans. This rich heritage is reflected in the wide variety of ethnic restaurants found in the squares and streets surrounding the Vieux Port. When I wasn’t frequenting cafes specializing in French Crepes or Moroccan hummus, I was wandering the night market, buying fresh vegetables and fruits from local farms or selecting from a mind-boggling variety of olives, roasted peppers, and tapenade displayed in giant crocks in the food stalls.
One evening I raised my camera to take a photo of the men working behind a row of tables in the center of the street. One of them raised his hand, palm out, as if to stop me.
“No photo?” He shook his head. “OK,” I consented, putting on a disappointed face.
“Where are you from?” he asked.
“USA,” I answered.
“Obama!” he cried, giving me a double thumbs up. As elsewhere in France, President Obama is wildly popular, and the U.S. Presidential election had occurred the day before. I laughed and nodded, returning his double thumbs up. Suddenly, everyone in the booth insisted on having their photo taken with me. I left a short while later, with new friends and a free bag of fruit.
Another day I explored the Quartier du Panier on the north side of Vieux Port, site of the original settlement of Marseille. I climbed the street leading up from the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) into a neighborhood of historic buildings daubed in a palette of pastels, many of which had been transformed into gift shops, cafes, and art galleries featuring the work of local artists. I strolled the narrow cobblestone lanes, stopping occasionally to puzzle over street art painted on many of the buildings, until reaching La Vieille Charité, a baroque chapel surrounded by a courtyard lined with arched galleries. Originally built as a prison for beggars, who were reviled and brutally repressed in the 1600’s in France, the structure was subsequently used as an asylum, barracks for the French Foreign Legion, and as housing for the homeless, until in 1962, dilapidated and squalid, it was finally shut down. Fortunately, between 1970 and 1986 La Vieille Charité was restored to its former glory and it now stands as the crowning structure of the Quartier du Panier.
Having thoroughly investigated the Vieux Port, on subsequent days I researched lists of the best things to see in Marseille and began wandering further afield. Just south of my hostel I climbed the highest hill in Marseille to visit Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica. The present-day Neo-Byzantine church was built on the site of an 11th century chapel and fort, which served as a lookout over the city and Bay of Marseille. The early chapel became a pilgrimage site for sailors, who climbed to the summit to pray for a safe journey. This tradition has been handed down through the centuries; local fishermen still make votive offerings to saints, asking for safe voyage. Known as ex-votos, these paintings or intricate wooden models of their ships hang on the walls of the Basilica or are strung from its ceiling.
I began in the lower-level crypt, then climbed to the main sanctuary where I gasped in astonishment. The walls, ceilings and domes were covered in glittering mosaics – more than 12 million small pieces in all, intricately pieced together to form geometric designs and religious scenes. Columns and arches were crafted of alternating pink and white limestone imported from Florence, Italy, creating a Moorish-influenced Baroque style that was somehow appropriate for this French melting pot. When I’d had my fill of the opulence, I descended from the 490-foot summit on the north side of the hill, taking a circuitous route that allowed for a stop at Fort Saint Nicolas, one of two that guard the entrance to the harbor.
Another day I wandered past hundreds of pricey sailboats and yachts docked in the marina, turned left at the mouth of the harbor and continued along the Bay of Marseille. The sun dipped low in the sky, painting buildings along the rocky coastline in shades gold and ochre and turning the sea an exquisite shade of emerald. I reached my destination, the fishing village of Vallon des Auffes, in the late afternoon. Nothing was doing in this sleepy little enclave tucked into a small inlet in the rocky coastline; it was too late for lunch and the restaurants had not yet opened for dinner, so I settled for taking photos of the picturesque little harbor, filled with colored ropes, fishing nets, and lobster pots.
At the end of a week I decided it was time to head back to Spain but the travel gods thought otherwise. All of Spain was locked up in a transportation strike. Happily, I extended my stay in Marseille another two days. Under crystal clear, sunny skies I hopped on a ferry that carried me to the Frioul Islands, perhaps best known for Château d’If, the prison on the smallest of the three islands, which was the setting for the famous novel by Alexandre Dumas, The Count of Monte Cristo. We docked at the largest island, Ratonneau, a dollop of brilliant white limestone dropped into the Mediterranean like a lump of cookie dough. Half an hour later I was standing at the gate of an old fortress on the highest shelf of granite, looking down on the quaint harbor and handful of deserted cafes. During the summer, thousands of tourists descend upon these islands for their pristine beaches, secluded creeks, and snorkeling spots, but in mid-November I had the place totally to myself. I lingered as long as possible, examining crystal strewn pockets in the rocks and watching gulls swoop between nests and sea, barely making it back to the dock for the last boat of the day. We motored back in a pink-hued twilight, passing beneath the twin forts at the harbor mouth and into the Vieux Port just as the city lights were twinkling on.
Can’t view the above slideshow abut Marseille? Click here.
When Spain’s transportation strike ended, I left with regret. Though I had spent nine days exploring this city that had become my favorite destination in France, I barely scratched the surface. I had sampled the famous orange-blossom biscuits known as Navettes at the oldest bakery in Marseille, Le Four des Navettes, but I hadn’t tried Bouillabaisse, the most famous seafood stew in Marseille. I’d hunted down the gorgeous art deco Opera House but hadn’t attended any music performances or visited any of the city’s numerous museums. My experience in Paris was similar, in that I did not have time to see everything on my wish list, but leaving the City of Light did not affect me as profoundly as my leave-taking in Marseille. If you have only two weeks to spend in France you must, of course, visit Paris. But there is another must in France, and its name is Marseille.
Google + is amazing… this post showed up in my Google search results thanks to your G+ post. I have yet to visit Marseille. It looks lovely and full of energy. I just came back from Briançon in the mountains and wish I had time to hit the coast!
Hi Tiana: Thanks for letting me know how you found my blog – always interesting to know. I hope you get to visit Marseille one day, as I found it a fascinating city, so different from the rest of France.
I really like it when people get together and share thoughts. Great blog, stick with it!
You just let me add another city to my list. Marsielle is interesting and I love to personally see its hidden gems. Thank you for sharing.
Hi Tom: Fingers crossed that you love it as much as I did when you eventually visit!
Probably Marseille’s main landmark, visible from many places in the city, the Basilique de Notre Dame de la Garde stands guard on a high point, overlooking panoramic views over the city and the surrounding coastline. It’s a bit of a walk to get here, all uphill through a mostly residential neighbourhood far from the other sights, but you could take one of the little noddy trains if you can’t be bothered to walk…either way, don’t miss it, as both the views from the terrace and the interior of the basilica are quite special.
Thanks for the tour. Great pictures. I had to fix my schedule to go there. Adding this to my bucket list.
I agree 100% with your comment that the ” beauty of traveling nomadically is that I have no fixed schedule and can change my plans on a whim”. Am going to Europe next year and Marseille does look like a place I would love to visit, really liked the pics, good job.
Thank you John D. Glad you enjoyed my blog and thanks for taking the time to say so.
Good to know you enjoyed Marseille so much! France has never been high on my list, but there are still a lot of places there I’d like to see, and you may have just bumped this city a little higher on that list.
Hi Ali: You know, France wasn’t particularly high on my list either, but I decided I should really see Paris, especially since I had friends there. Then, as long as I was there, I decided to see more of France. Turned out, I liked it a lot and am SO glad I went. It just grew and grew on me.
sorry to read that France is not very high on your list. France has mountains, canyons, beaches, beautiful rivers, 11000 chateaus, manors, medieval forts etc.. more than 150 cathedrals, about 2500 abbeys and monasteries, hundreds of medieval churches, ( in the region where I live practically each village has a Church that was built in the 11th or 12th century) hundreds of medieval villages, dozens of medieval towns. Each region of France has its own architectural style : celtic in Brittany, danish in Normandy, flemish in northern France, German in Alsace, Italian in the South east, Basque and spanish in the South west. Then there is central France with the old volcanos area, the Dordogne region/valley with beautiful castles, forts and villages, Burgundy with dozens of castles too , Alsace and its wine route and dozens of beautiful villages and small towns, the Alps etc..etc..
For some obscure reasons France is largely underrated in America ( except Paris, the Riviera and Provence ). If you want to get real good infos about France read british papers, they often have great articles about all the different régions : where to go, where to stay, what to do.
Hoping that this will make you change your mind and put France on top of your list in Europe. Cheers !
Hi Gerard: How on earth did you ever get the impression that France is not high on my list????? I have been there many times and absolutely LOVE France. I have written nothing but glowing reports about it.In fact, I am headed back there in two days, this time to Toulouse.
seems like a gorgeous place (awesome pics too, i love the pic of the interior of the church)… safe travels Barbara 🙂
Hi Flip: So glad you liked the photos. Marseille was a complete and unexpected surprise. I think part of the reason I loved it so much was that is was “real.” Gritty and a little litter in places, but definitely not unsafe or unsavory. And because the tourists haven’t flocked here in droves (yet), I had a true, local experience. People there were just wonderful. Definitely my kind of town. Safe travels to you as well.
I will do it! I am from somewhere close, from Mallorca! Seems that is a nice destination!
Hi Minkner: I think it’s pretty easy (and cheap) to fly from Mallorca to Marseille. Try EasyJet or RyanAir. Hope you enjoy the city as much as I did.
I guess there’s a reason the national anthem is called La Marseillaise 😉
Never thought of that Loz. Now that has me wondering…
I am glad that now people think of Obama when they say you are American. A few years ago it was Bush, and you wouldn’t get a smile back from anybody.
LOL Cristina – I was traveling back when Bush was president and I well remember how poorly he was thought of by other countries. President Obama has done wonders for repairing our stature and respect around the world.
And by the way it’s the Frioul, not Friol :))
OOPS, corrected that, thanks!
Hi! thank you so much for your wonderful description of Marseille. As you said it is a superb city, I think not well known internationally, but so beautiful. In France they call it the French Chicago because of the number of crimes but it’s mostly between gangster men. But French people have a bad picture of the city. It’s so nice that your post didn’t reflect that, and when I was reading it it brought tears to my eyes.
Marseillans are very open and always ready to help people. And they speak with a nice sunny accent 🙂 all the contrary of Parisian lol. You must know they’re the worst enemies. This year Marseille is the European capital of culture so that’s why it is a city not to miss this year.
And if you come another time you absolutely have to see the calanques (a pure treasure)and the Borrely parc.
Hi GW:Thanks YOU for your lovely comment. I really bonded with Marseille. I can’t imagine why tourists are not flocking there in droves. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I’m originally from Chicago :-). Definitely wish I’d had time to see the Calanques, but the problem is that if you run around doing all the “tourist”things, there’s no time to sit in Tabacs or cafes and meet the local people, so I do half and half. Plus, I was there in November, so it wasn’t an ideal time for a sail. But it just gives me reason to come back. And by the way, telling a writer that his or her story brought tears to your eyes is just about the highest compliment that you can pay, so I thank you for that from the bottom of my heart.
i guess now i have to visit Marseilles soon. Thanks for the inspiration! great photos! 😀
Thanks Mariza. Glad you enjoyed the virtual tour 🙂
Marseilles is one of the places in France that is still on my list. Sounds like you had some wonderful experiences.
I have a suspicion you’d like it Talon. It’s quite multicultural and a bit gritty in places, but it felt so much more “real” to me than some of the other, more touristy places.
Great atmospheric descriptions of an oft missed city. To me it feels so dramatically different to the north of France and especially Paris.
The south of France is a whole world of its own, Mark. Marseille felt like a smaller, albeit more “raw” Paris.
Wasn’t Marseille on Lonely Planet’s list of best cities to visit in 2013?
The South of France totally appeals to me. It seems like such a relaxed spot but with plenty to see and do.
Hi Bethaney. It wasn’t on on Lonely Planet’s list of the top 10 cities for 2013, but it was on the New York Times, NatGeo Traveler, Conde Nast Traveller and Travel and Leisure list of top travel destinations for 2013. Those can’t all be wrong 🙂 Fortunately, I was there the month before those lists were published, so I got to see it before the tourists descend.
I just watched Annie Andre’s episode of House Hunters International where her family moved to Marseille. Nice to see some more Marseille info!
Marseille is an undiscovered gem. It’s cosmopolitan, earthy and gritty, all at the same time. Glad I got to see it before it becomes the next tourist mecca.
I have to say – while many bloggers travel the world full time, I can manage to withstand the temptation in their posts. But your description of “no set schedule” and wandering leisurely through new towns, with the time to stop and observe whatever you feel is interesting has me wishing I could do the same! I can’t wait until we’re free of student loan debt so that we have more flexibility. For now, we have a ton of debt to pay off so we’re tethered to our jobs. After that…. the world awaits!
Thank you Jen! That’s a really nice compliment for my writing and photography. Here’s hoping you’ll pay off those loans quickly and be able to see some of the world.
Such beautiful pictures! Just curious, what camera are you using?
Hi Jam. I use the Canon T3i, as mid-range DSLR, but I invest money in the lenses. Most of my shots are taken with a Canon EF-S 10-22mm wide angle.
I can second the awesomeness of this lens 🙂