“Whatever you do, don’t take the train to Serbia!” my tour guide exclaimed. “The best way to visit Serbia from Zagreb is to take the bus.” Unfortunately, I’d already purchased my train ticket. On the morning of my departure, fearing the worst, I climbed aboard a decrepit, graffiti covered train to find a surprisingly clean … Read more
Belgrade Fortress, in Kalemegdan Park in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. These fortifications stood guard over the Danube River, the most important trading route during Medieval days and the major source of income for the city, as it had the right to collect tolls from vessels using the river to transport goods.
The young man in the dirty jeans and faded navy T-shirt wouldn’t tell me his name. I’d asked the group of refugees hanging around the park in front of the Belgrade bus station if any one spoke English and they’d pushed him forward. He was willing to speak to me on condition of anonymity, so … Read more
