Never Call a Franconian a Bavarian

Bamberg's Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus), sits on an artificial island in the center of the River Regnitz

Sometime during the night my Viking River cruise ship left the castles of the Middle Rhine behind and turned left onto the Main River. Just east of Frankfurt we crossed over into Bavaria, an area of Germany that most associate with snow-capped alps, giant mugs of beer, alpine meadows, and Lederhosen. I was quickly disavowed … Read more

A Fairy Tale on the Middle Rhine

Katz Castle in St. Soarshausen, sister to Katz Castle, named for the "Cat and Mouse" game played by its owners

I threw open the drapes of my stateroom and gasped. Gone were the gray skies of Amsterdam and Cologne. Brilliant sunshine promised a perfect day of sailing through the Middle Rhine Valley, a fairy tale landscape of glittering green hillsides, where near-vertical vineyards tumbled down toward the emerald river. Since prehistoric times, the Rhine has … Read more

The Sadness of Amsterdam

The Red Light District of Amsterdam

The moment I stepped inside the Anne Frank House, a shiver shot up my spine and my hair stood on end. As I climbed into the rafters where eight Jews were secreted during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands in World War II, a lump rose in my throat and I fought back emotions that … Read more