In the grainy gray light just before dawn, I stole from my suite at the Luang Say Residence and walked the silent streets to witness Binthabhat, the daily practice of giving alms to monks in Luang Prabang, Laos. I was conflicted over this event. As a photographer I desperately wanted to take photos of the … Read more
On day two of my cruise down the Mekong River, our white yacht eased up to the dock in Luang Prabang. Within seconds, a pack of urchins crawled through the windows and assaulted our luggage . My instincts were not fast enough; before I knew it a disheveled boy barely larger than my bag was … Read more
Though I resisted the idea of climbing out of my cloud-soft king size bed and leaving Luang Say Lodge, the second day of my slow boat to Luang Prabang Mekong River cruise beckoned. As the captain expertly piloted our white yacht through rippling rapids encased by jagged rocks, I swayed with the gentle motion of … Read more
Over the years I’d heard all the horror stories about crossing from northern Thailand into Laos and taking a slow boat to Luang Prabang. Each day hundreds of travelers cross the Mekong River and join the crush at Lao Immigration, where they wait to be stamped into the country. Once approved, they’re herded like cattle … Read more
I’ve passed through my fair share of border towns over the years. Many are shabby, filthy encampments that exist on either side of a barren no man’s land where immigration officials with steely gazes extract their pound of flesh. Some, like Poipet at the border between Cambodia and Thailand, feel downright dangerous. As I gradually … Read more
