Bait and Switch on the Tonle Sap River

Boat for sunset cruise on Tonle Sap River, Phnom Penh Cambodia

Once my traveling companion, Larry Bosco, and I had exhausted land-based attractions in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, we turned to the water. Rivers are the lifeblood of Cambodia and Phnom Penh is located at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac. We walked along Sisowath Quay beneath international flags of countries flapping in the … Read more

Heartbreak in Cambodia

Tuol Sleng, the notorious Khmer Rouge prison camp in Phnom Penh known as S-21

The ocean of tuk tuks, motorcycles, and pedestrians in downtown Phnom Penh parted around me like the Red Sea. An uneasy feeling niggled; something wasn’t quite right but I couldn’t put my finger on it. I returned a smile from a pajama-clad Khmer woman on her daily shopping rounds and suddenly realized that my face … Read more

The Mystery of Buddha’s Relics

Traditional Ayutthaya-style Chedi at Wat Prayoon resembles an upside down bell

According to the Office of National Buddhism there are 40,717 Wats (Buddhist temples) in Thailand of which 33,902 are in current use. Almost every one of them includes a Chedi (also known as a Stupa or pagoda), a building that in most cases is said to hold a relic of the Buddha. I had often … Read more