Last fall, I met an Omani man at my guest house in Delhi, India. When he learned I was a travel writer, he began to gush about Oman. “You must go! It is so beautiful. Muscat is gorgeous and people are so friendly.” I was sold. I added Oman to a list of Middle Eastern countries to visit this spring.
I arrived in Muscat, the capital of Oman, on a balmy March evening on the heels of visiting Dubai in the UAE. I’d thoroughly enjoyed my time in Dubai and, if reports I’d read on the Internet were any indication, I’d be even more wowed by Oman.
My first inkling that Oman might not be all that I hoped came a few minutes later. The driver of the taxi who met me at the airport started asking what I wanted to do in Muscat. I replied that I’d begin by taking the hop-on, hop-off Big Bus in order familiarize myself with the sprawling city. “Oh no! You don’t want to do that. It’s really expensive and you have to wait a long time between buses.” His warning was quickly followed with a sales pitch. He could show me everything I needed to see in half a day and it would cost only $65.
I wasn’t interested. As a photographer, I often need to wait for the right light, or for crowds to clear in order to get the best shot. As a writer, I must be able to roam at my own pace, soaking up the atmosphere, talking to locals, and musing over story angles. Being tied to a tour where I’m allowed 15 or 20 minutes at each stop simply doesn’t work. I politely declined, but he wouldn’t take no for an answer. Trapped in his vehicle, I suffered the hard sell all the way to my hotel.
It was late and I was exhausted by the time we reached my hotel. I wanted nothing more than to fall into bed and sleep for ten hours. But my room fronted on a six-lane highway and the traffic noise was so bad I knew sleeping would be impossible. I asked for and was given a second room…which had a balcony with sliding glass doors that would not lock.
As a solo female traveler, I have a few non-negotiable rules for staying safe. One of them is never to stay in a room where the doors won’t lock. Once again, I asked for my room to be changed. The third try was even worse. The room reeked like a dead animal and there were dark brown spots on the carpet the size of dinner plates. I’m sure the Filipino staff hated me by that time, but I had to demand a fourth room, which was finally acceptable.
My experience did not improve over the next five days. I began in Old Muscat, where the only interesting sites among a sea of whitewashed buildings were the Al Alam Palace and two 16th-century Portuguese forts. None of which were open to the public. With everything closed during the midday heat, streets of the old town were deserted. The only sign of life was four Omani men wearing the traditional Omani Dishdasha, an ankle-length white caftan, and round embroidered caps known as kumma. They strolled slowly down the middle of the street, eventually disappearing into one of the brilliant white palaces. Little did I know this would be the closest I would ever get to Omani culture.
Dejectedly, I turned my back on Old Muscat and headed back down the 4-mile Corniche. It was a beautiful seaside walk, but as in Old Muscat, everything along the way was closed. I arrived at the Mutrah Suq just as the market was opening for the evening and ducked inside to wander its cool narrow alleyways. Like any other market in the world, merchants hawked wares ranging from gold to spice to pashmina shawls. But every single one of the shop owners was an immigrant. I met friendly Pakistanis, Filipinos, Bangladeshis, and even Nepalis. But not a single Omani was to be found.
On day two I fended off multiple pushy taxi drivers, found the Big Bus stop, and sat down to wait. The bus arrived fifteen minutes later, but I wasn’t allowed to board. A cruise ship was in town and the company was busy shuttling passengers back to the ship. When the next bus finally arrived, it did an “abbreviated” route that ignored some of the stops shown on the company’s website.
We were well past the beach by the time I realized the driver had skipped it. My only option would have been to go all the way around and wait for the next bus. By that time it was too late. Even if I took a quick stroll on the beach and grabbed a late lunch, I would miss the last bus back. And a taxi back to the hotel would set me back another 25 bucks.
My Big Bus ticket was for two days, so I set out early the next morning. I was beginning to suspect that there was little to see or do in Muscat, and the Big Bus tour quickly confirmed my worst fears. Strangely, the two most visited sites, the Muscat Opera House and the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, were not even included on the route. Unlike the hop-on, hop-off buses I’ve taken in dozens of other locations around the world, this one was a total rip-off. I did manage to see the mosque when a lovely French Canadian family at the hotel invited me to accompany them in their rental car. Good thing, too, because the taxi driver I’d hired to take me didn’t show up.
For the remainder of my time in Oman, I decided to focus on day trips outside of the capital city. I’d read about jeep tours in the surrounding Sahara-like dunes, off-roading through rugged mountain scenery, and wadis where hidden emerald pools offer opportunities for a cool dip. I tried my favorite go-to booking site, GetYourGuide, and even Viator, without success. Not only are tours in Oman extremely expensive, the minimum number of participants for any tour was two people. As a single person I would have had to pay double, even if other customers joined the same tour. The cheapest option was $250 for a half-day trip to a wadi. I just said no.
I spent my last day wandering around the Mutrah area, eating horrible fast food and trying to meet locals other than taxi drivers. The only Omanis I found were squatting on the sidewalk in front of a sand pit, playing an ancient game known as hawalis. The chess-like game involved moving a series of pebbles among four rows of holes dug in the sand. The men refused to acknowledge me and even my requests to take a photo went unanswered. Lacking denial, I snapped the photo. I stood there a while longer, trying to decipher the rules of the game, but their snub made me increasingly uncomfortable. I later learned the centuries-old game, which is just as incomprehensible as the local culture, is exclusive to Oman.
Others may wax lyrical about Oman, but the only friendly people I met were immigrants. And the countryside may indeed be beautiful, but since all the tours were exceedingly expensive, I never saw it. There is no published information about bus routes and no rapid transit. Even renting a car is problematic. My new French Canadian friends told me horror stories about getting lost in the interior on roadways completely devoid of any directional signs. Oman doesn’t have a clue how to handle tourism. Until it does, I can find lots of other places to spend my money.
Author’s note: Since publishing this article, I have been flooded with comments from travelers who love Muscat. I’m the first to say that different places resonate with different people. I may not want to return, but those of you who are intrigued by Oman as a destination may find both this comprehensive travel guide to Oman and this 10-Day Oman Itinerary helpful.
“The cheapest option was $250 for a half-day trip to a wadi. I just said no.” so now I just read this bit! The tour companies are for the luxury hotel guests who don’t want any hassle, but do want a 5 star service. Ha.. this is where your annoying taxi driver would have helped you. 20 OMR he would drive you to any of the wadis and back (having a sleep in the taxi while he waited for you). Have a read of Trip advisor next time. Or…. you could hire a car for the day for the same price (rentalcar .com).
strangest article I ever read. It seems you didn’t research anything.. but claim to be a seasoned travel photographer. 1 hour on the internet would have solved most of your issues. No idea how you managed to book a hotel right on the highway (surely you have access to google maps?). You could have been in a bungalow right on the beach at the Dive Centre, then a couple of days at one of the hotels in Jebal Akdar.. even budget options on the corniche would offer some great photography opportunities for around 20RO a night. Yes, there is public transport now – local busses. We even have taxis with meters (you just have to choose the right one – although it is now VERY hard to not get a metered taxi form the airport, as non metered ones are not allowed there). Oman was also voted the safest country to live in the world by Internations. I lived for about 4 years in 2 villas that the front door didn’t have a lock.. never bothered me in the slightest..
Hi, I can understand why you may have not enjoyed your trip there, although I feel your understanding of the people & culture may be misconstrued bu your particular experience. I have been to Muscat many times for weeks on end due to my husband\’s work, & have seen both good & not-so-great sides of the country. Cab drivers in general tend to prey on foreigners & require them to pay much more than nationals. You will need to barter here & whip up negotiating skills, since there is no meter. Cabs were a sore spot for me as well. The people in general I\’ve found to be kind & gentle, and very helpful. It also helps to stay near the Qurum area, which has many foreigners & hotels that cater to them. The beaches there are amazing, & I\’ve found many pleasant memories of interactions with locals by walking around neighborhoods in the area, especially at night when most people come out to mingle & relax. Hope you get to visit a second time & have a different experience.
Happy travels,
Jackie
We lived and worked in Oman for two years and much of what you write resonated with us. There is a total lack of tourist infrastructure – unless you are prepared to pay top dollar. There is no public transport to speak of and yes, tourists should avoid the taxis unless they want to get fleeced. Muscat itself is so geographically spread out that it makes it impossible to absorb it properly. Like much of the Gulf, the car reigns supreme. Many sites are also off-limits. Don’t get me wrong, there is some beautiful countryside and the people are warm and friendly. The problem is that the country needs to diversify away from its reliance on oil and tourism is seen as one of those areas for expansion. As you put it, it doesn’t really have a clue – which is a shame.
I hope this changes in the future. I’m sure the country has more to offer that I was able to experience, but unfortunately the lack of tourist infrastructure made it difficult to do.
Hi Jackie. Thanks for your thoughtful comment. Based on recommendations like yours, I might someday decide to try it again.
You couldn’t be more wrong. Oman is a beautiful place with probably the friendliest people in the world. I’ve been to Oman over a dozen times with my longest stay over 3 months. I have many Omani friends and I can safely say that they are the most gentle of all the people I know.
You draw your conclusion on a single hotel stay. You obviously didn’t pick a good one, but it’s not like that there are no crappy hotels elsewhere in the world and it is hardly the problem of Muscat or Oman. Should have tried the Chedi Muscat if you wanted to be surrounded with luxury.
I suggest you go back, preferably in the winter, so can walk around in the city. Stay in a nice hotel on the beach, maybe in Qurum, eat the local seafood and perhaps enjoy a performance at the Opera.
Lol- You call yourself a travel writer, but you just moan on and on about Oman. Of course if you go in with a negative and self entitled attitude, Oman will suck. If you are scared as a female solo traveler, then don’t go to Oman in the first place. On your page it states that you are a “baby boomer”, so whats the need to be scared of an unlocked balcony door if you are an old woman staying alone in Oman???
Taking a photo of the locals without asking permission was extremely rude! Picture this, you and your two friends are sitting in a cafe in New York. Suddenly an Arab man wearing his full Arab attire comes and takes a picture of you against your will! If you wanted to meet locals, you could have been more open to the taxi drivers, you self entitled snob.
If you want a picturesque experience with all accommodations possible, then PAY MORE MONEY.
I agree with your comments, but not the baby boomer one, as I’m from the baby boomer age, so that was quite rude! The other thing I would disagree with is about no need for concern of having a door that didn’t lock, its not only for the safety of the lady in question, but also of course, doors need to be locked in respect of keeping your personal items secure. Best wishes.
I am also from the baby boomer age, and for the 4 months I lived in Oman, I didn’t leave my door unlocked once. I felt safer in Oman than I have ever felt in my hometown of Tel Aviv. The author of this article is petty and she has a flawed perspective.
I am also from the baby boomer age, and for the 4 months I lived in Oman, I didn’t leave my door unlocked once. I felt safer in Oman than I have ever felt in my hometown of Tel Aviv.
Totally agree. This person did little research before her visit. In addition, it is extremely easy to hire a car, and the roads to some of the main tourist sites in and around Muscat, and out to the interior, are easy and accessible. She was obviously jetlagged and grumpy when she had her encounter with the taxi driver. And probably quite cheap or mean. I’ve lived in Oman for 9 years, and it is one of the easiest countries to live in in the world, and I’ve lived in about 7 now, I’ve lost count! The fact that I stay here is testament to the fact that it is an easy and hospital country to live in.
Your mindset towards travelling is in not one to choose travel writing for any other destination, than tourist traps that function in a way to hurdle our Earth towards consumerist hurricane. In Oman people have people skills and values, price is discussed as conversations are precious and it takes time to open those to meaningful level. You are obviously in able to key in and understand. My guess is that you are from a relatively privileged background and these skills surpassed you, no trolls, just utter disappointment at reading your article. I grew up in the Middle East and unlike Dubai, Oman has not passed through that one way door, thankfully.
Totally agree – the mindset was preparing for failure. I’ve never heard such rubbish about Oman. If you like Dubai and all the fakery and plastic and gold glitz, it’s highly unlikely the humility of Oman will appeal. Stick to the malls. Oman is stunning, the people are wonderful.
This is so WRONG!
Your judgement on how not a single Omani works in Muttrah Souq offends me even though I’m not an Omani myself. Muttrah Souq is filled with people looking for a job and people selling goods they created from their traditional background or from the Omani traditional background. I don’t understand at all what is so wrong with no Omanis working in Muttrah.
I think you need to respect the Omani culture and country.
The Al Alam palace is out of bounds because that belongs to the Sultan – God bless him – and there’s something called privacy. I suppose you’ll like strangers and tourists running around your home and taking selfies in front of your belongings.
If you didn’t like Muscat, why not go to places Salalah or explore Jebel Shams or Jebel Akhdar and not just stay in Muscat.
You’re missing out on a lot if you’re just focusing on one city in a whole country of tradition and Islamic culture.
I am English. Oman is the friendliest, most beautiful, most civilised country in the world. Full of culture and tradition. You are lazy and never even tried to see this wonderful country. You could spend a life time in Oman and still find beautiful places to visit and wonderful Omanis to meet. If you pay 10 rials a night for a hotel what do you expect? The Taj in Mumbai?
hello. i live in muscat and what you said is likely not the reply of tourists who visit oman. See, here’s the thing, you can’t really just visit Muscat like you did Dubai. you should have planned your stay and what you would’ve done each day. Dubai is literally just made to cater tourists but Muscat isn’t like that.
After all, there is a bad trip once in a while. Hope you enjoy your travels and like Muscat better if you ever visit again 🙂
I’ve been to Oman and I’ve known a lot of Omani people and i totally disagree with you. You need to improve your writing skills and change your attitude if you plan to explore the world. Maybe next time when you plan to visit a place do some research in advance and stop giving stupid reviews please.
I agree!
I have lived in Oman my entire life, it is the most culturally liberal and safe place. Every country has its own way of life and as a traveler you should try to understand and enjoy the differences. America is also quite unfriendly and rude depending on where you go. To generalize is not correct. I found Oman to be the perfect blend of western cleanliness, safety and the eastern hospitality, culture and food. You obviously went alone which maybe in your case you should have not and did not have a proper guide. What did you expect ? Oman has some of the most beautiful beaches, corniche, turtle watching etc. Learning to adjust to traffic sounds and food and the way of speech in a particular country is important and so you should research it better. Talking about hotels there is the bustan hotel, continental .These are excellent but yes they are not cheap. Maybe you should stick to the western world to travel and stop calling yourself a traveler. Its okay to not like certain things about a place but being overly dramatic and generalizing is very childish. I have credibility as I am from India, lived in Oman and now live in the US and let me tell you it takes some adjusting in America too, you guys aint all that accepting and are also ignorant of other countries. But I love a lot of things here as well.
I’m American citizens yes you right USA is not friendly at all in Brooklyn u can live all your life and you will never meet the next door Neibor , I love oman and Uae and saudi
“I’m an American citizen. Yes, you are right. The U.S.A. is not friendly at all.” Ha ha. That sounds funny. It doesn’t sound like you’ve made an effort to meet many people. That’s your fault. You should try to be more open-minded. There are good and bad people EVERY-WHERE. You are in New York which is one of the most ethnically diverse, cosmopolitan and exciting places on Earth. “In Brooklyn, you can live all your life and you will never meet the next door neighbor.” First of all, I’ve read that New Yorkers are a bit shy. Second, have you ever thought about introducing yourself to your neighbor? It’s not that difficult. “I love Oman, the U.A.E. and Saudi Arabia.” Then, why don’t you move to one of those?
I have been on numerous cruises, which have included 3 visits to Muscat. It is still one of my favourite ports.
Obviously you are a tourist and not a traveller. (Good photos though.)
LOL – I find it amusing that someone who sees a destination from a cruise ship accuses me of being a tourist rather than a traveler.
FYI, I did leave the ship on each occasion and travelled to places in Oman as well as walking Muscat.
I found the people very friendly and respectful.
Muscat will not miss you.
You yourself stayed for five days, spent two of them on a tourist “Big Bus” – that you had been warned against taking – and spent the rest of the time mooching around Muttrah because your French-Canadian “friends” (i.e. casual acquaintances), fed you nonsense about poor road signage in the interior.
It hardly makes you Lady Hester Stanhope, does it?
Sounds to me like you just shouldn’t travel. You seem to have a negative attitude and by the way you write, you come off like an entitled American.
hi
yes, I know oman may seem not great when you first come to it. but with me, before I went I was excited until the day I actually went and still I am in here. what i didn’t like was how it was so hot and a few other things i will not talk about. but once i was younger i did go to oman however i still didnt remember until later i saw video. there are beaches which i love. i also live in sohar and i have been to muscat and it was fantastic. what i was very hapy about what the favorite popular sport was football and im very good at it. and alo the corona virus is really bad but in oman is kinda safe. but in UK where i used to live is a very harsh condition. so thats why im ok here now and if you stay in muscat more than maybe 2 weeks then you will inshallah be fine.
I felt very uncomfortable reading about your experience of Oman. But I do like to apologize to you, rather than blaming you. It is quite possible for any person to get into a series of unfriendly situations within a short time in life and to make up one’s mind/attitude based on that experience of a short time. But never ever think that it is the ultimate truth. I was in Oman for one and half-decades and another one has passed since I left its shores. Just like you, I too had lots of difficulty in getting into terms with Oman and Omanis initially. But things changed for good in a very short period of time. I dont know how beautiful or picturesque is Oman since I come from a really beautiful part of this world, Kerala, India. But the people of Oman are indeed the best people on earth. They may look and behave very coarse but they are indeed very nice inside. Yes, you may not have any historical monument to link Oman to Alexander the Great or Roman empire but there are enough historical places with respect to Oman’s history and Arab Culture. I suggest the author to make one more visit, with bit more planning and in a more relaxed manner. It is very important to make contact with somebody in Oman in advance. Dont rely on taxi drivers you meet on the street and dont judge a nation by that country’s taxi drivers. Wish you had some friends in Oman to take you around, in that case you would have had a wonderful experience to cherish for your whole lifel
Not going to lie, could not keep reading after the first paragraph as I felt an immense sense of negativity just from the way you write and express yourself.
You seem to be very perplexed and mentally/emotionally confused.
What you have described is only a reflection of yourself and not the country.
Oman is one of the most beautiful countries there is in our modern day era.
Get some help, and keep that negativity to yourself.
Im in Oman Now and she describe it very good. Maybe you should seek mental help. The only thing she forgot to write is more about there bad food and possebilety of getting food poisened.
What is wrong with you? Uneducated seems to be the problem
Yes! Oman and its citizens are the most respectable and smiley persons in the gulf. I had worked in other gulf countries, and for my personal experience, Oman and its citizens are wonderful.
Drivers will allow you to pass the street respectfully. God bless.
ikr
This is incorrect. oman is a beautiful country and you do not see the good side of it and appreciate it like others. get a life. if you have a problem with this country keep it to yourself
Sorry for the unexpected experience you have in Muscat. I was there 3 days ago, on 3 feb 2020. Let me make a short review of my visit. I was so much astonished with the city because it is different from what I expected. The city and the people are so nice.
In short your review about Muscat, it is a narrow minded writing. The comments just reflected your personal interest.
Honestly Oman is a wonderful place to visit.
Pls can u help my sister to come back to Nigeria
Are you president or something since your sorry. Why can you do to make it more fun or nicer. Arabs here are mixed with pakkistanians and hindus.
Strange arab contry from a lebanese Arab.
lol “travel writer”. How about respecting cultures and not taking photos of people who do not want it.
I feel sorry for you for being like that. Good luck.
You wanted to go to Oman as a tourist, sorry but we aren’t quite there yet!! Before you go to a new country at least do some research which I am sure you didn’t because you did all the wrong things. There are fantastic walks, days out and various sightseeing to do, just not with tour companies! And regarding those men which wouldn’t speak to you, OMAN IS A MUSLIN COUNTRY and 40 years ago it was practically medieval a lot of men keep their space from women. You came for a holiday here and was disappointed, at least be respectful you cheapskate.
Am still to visit Oman for the first time but reading this article and witnessing the replies I can already tell the writer is giving a clear picture of the place and the tone of the comments confirm her write up. ishshsh !!! ???
Well, oman Is one of the best countries in the WORLD
friendly people, cleanliness, helpful people
Looks like you wanted oman to be 100% good
You should surely take another visit to oman or muscat
I just came back from 2 weeks in Oman .
I found most of time nice hopeful people ready to help you if you need it.
I was alone travelled busy still I saw lot of the country by taxi it costed me a little bit but I was prepared.
I would go back anytime to visit the rest of country I didn t have time to visit.
Love Oman and Omani people
You do… The truth burns, doesn’t it lol.
As an avid traveler, I cannot agree more with you… Oman is a horrible and unprofessional place (don’t even get me started on getting a driver’s license over there, Jesus). Those who say otherwise haven’t been to better places.
The article is not about Oman, it’s all about you. Not sure who decided to label you a ‘travel writer’, but this is nothing to do with travel or the place you visited, but all about your own self entitlement.
Agreed. Oman is awesome!
Susan Jan 2020 How sad to read some of those awful reviews I lived in Oman for 6 years I lived among Omani people always found them very helpful and the saying when in Rome you do as the Romans why should they change to suit visitors they have a very old culture and dont like having their photo taken it is not modern slavery they have contracts they get wages if they went to their own country they cant survive I learned to speak arabic I also travelled all over Oman even to the empty quarter it cannot be compared to Dubia which is in my opinion another Hong Kong I hope the Sultan of Oman does not read the terrible things said about his people and country when he bought them into the 21st century from nothing maybe you should read the history of Oman.
When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Maybe other cultures should try doing that while in the UK, instead of trying to change the UK, into the places they have left behind ????
Well said Keith. I would say the same for the U.S.A., and the people there that want to change it into the places that they left behind.
I’m a little confused, you’re a travel writer but based on this article or post you just seem like another entitled tourist that doesn’t understand common tourist etiquette. And why is the first third of the time you complaining about things that are not exclusive to Oman at all and can be found in every country of the world.