Last fall, I met an Omani man at my guest house in Delhi, India. When he learned I was a travel writer, he began to gush about Oman. “You must go! It is so beautiful. Muscat is gorgeous and people are so friendly.” I was sold. I added Oman to a list of Middle Eastern countries to visit this spring.
I arrived in Muscat, the capital of Oman, on a balmy March evening on the heels of visiting Dubai in the UAE. I’d thoroughly enjoyed my time in Dubai and, if reports I’d read on the Internet were any indication, I’d be even more wowed by Oman.
My first inkling that Oman might not be all that I hoped came a few minutes later. The driver of the taxi who met me at the airport started asking what I wanted to do in Muscat. I replied that I’d begin by taking the hop-on, hop-off Big Bus in order familiarize myself with the sprawling city. “Oh no! You don’t want to do that. It’s really expensive and you have to wait a long time between buses.” His warning was quickly followed with a sales pitch. He could show me everything I needed to see in half a day and it would cost only $65.
I wasn’t interested. As a photographer, I often need to wait for the right light, or for crowds to clear in order to get the best shot. As a writer, I must be able to roam at my own pace, soaking up the atmosphere, talking to locals, and musing over story angles. Being tied to a tour where I’m allowed 15 or 20 minutes at each stop simply doesn’t work. I politely declined, but he wouldn’t take no for an answer. Trapped in his vehicle, I suffered the hard sell all the way to my hotel.
It was late and I was exhausted by the time we reached my hotel. I wanted nothing more than to fall into bed and sleep for ten hours. But my room fronted on a six-lane highway and the traffic noise was so bad I knew sleeping would be impossible. I asked for and was given a second room…which had a balcony with sliding glass doors that would not lock.
As a solo female traveler, I have a few non-negotiable rules for staying safe. One of them is never to stay in a room where the doors won’t lock. Once again, I asked for my room to be changed. The third try was even worse. The room reeked like a dead animal and there were dark brown spots on the carpet the size of dinner plates. I’m sure the Filipino staff hated me by that time, but I had to demand a fourth room, which was finally acceptable.
My experience did not improve over the next five days. I began in Old Muscat, where the only interesting sites among a sea of whitewashed buildings were the Al Alam Palace and two 16th-century Portuguese forts. None of which were open to the public. With everything closed during the midday heat, streets of the old town were deserted. The only sign of life was four Omani men wearing the traditional Omani Dishdasha, an ankle-length white caftan, and round embroidered caps known as kumma. They strolled slowly down the middle of the street, eventually disappearing into one of the brilliant white palaces. Little did I know this would be the closest I would ever get to Omani culture.
Dejectedly, I turned my back on Old Muscat and headed back down the 4-mile Corniche. It was a beautiful seaside walk, but as in Old Muscat, everything along the way was closed. I arrived at the Mutrah Suq just as the market was opening for the evening and ducked inside to wander its cool narrow alleyways. Like any other market in the world, merchants hawked wares ranging from gold to spice to pashmina shawls. But every single one of the shop owners was an immigrant. I met friendly Pakistanis, Filipinos, Bangladeshis, and even Nepalis. But not a single Omani was to be found.
On day two I fended off multiple pushy taxi drivers, found the Big Bus stop, and sat down to wait. The bus arrived fifteen minutes later, but I wasn’t allowed to board. A cruise ship was in town and the company was busy shuttling passengers back to the ship. When the next bus finally arrived, it did an “abbreviated” route that ignored some of the stops shown on the company’s website.
We were well past the beach by the time I realized the driver had skipped it. My only option would have been to go all the way around and wait for the next bus. By that time it was too late. Even if I took a quick stroll on the beach and grabbed a late lunch, I would miss the last bus back. And a taxi back to the hotel would set me back another 25 bucks.
My Big Bus ticket was for two days, so I set out early the next morning. I was beginning to suspect that there was little to see or do in Muscat, and the Big Bus tour quickly confirmed my worst fears. Strangely, the two most visited sites, the Muscat Opera House and the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, were not even included on the route. Unlike the hop-on, hop-off buses I’ve taken in dozens of other locations around the world, this one was a total rip-off. I did manage to see the mosque when a lovely French Canadian family at the hotel invited me to accompany them in their rental car. Good thing, too, because the taxi driver I’d hired to take me didn’t show up.
For the remainder of my time in Oman, I decided to focus on day trips outside of the capital city. I’d read about jeep tours in the surrounding Sahara-like dunes, off-roading through rugged mountain scenery, and wadis where hidden emerald pools offer opportunities for a cool dip. I tried my favorite go-to booking site, GetYourGuide, and even Viator, without success. Not only are tours in Oman extremely expensive, the minimum number of participants for any tour was two people. As a single person I would have had to pay double, even if other customers joined the same tour. The cheapest option was $250 for a half-day trip to a wadi. I just said no.
I spent my last day wandering around the Mutrah area, eating horrible fast food and trying to meet locals other than taxi drivers. The only Omanis I found were squatting on the sidewalk in front of a sand pit, playing an ancient game known as hawalis. The chess-like game involved moving a series of pebbles among four rows of holes dug in the sand. The men refused to acknowledge me and even my requests to take a photo went unanswered. Lacking denial, I snapped the photo. I stood there a while longer, trying to decipher the rules of the game, but their snub made me increasingly uncomfortable. I later learned the centuries-old game, which is just as incomprehensible as the local culture, is exclusive to Oman.
Others may wax lyrical about Oman, but the only friendly people I met were immigrants. And the countryside may indeed be beautiful, but since all the tours were exceedingly expensive, I never saw it. There is no published information about bus routes and no rapid transit. Even renting a car is problematic. My new French Canadian friends told me horror stories about getting lost in the interior on roadways completely devoid of any directional signs. Oman doesn’t have a clue how to handle tourism. Until it does, I can find lots of other places to spend my money.
Author’s note: Since publishing this article, I have been flooded with comments from travelers who love Muscat. I’m the first to say that different places resonate with different people. I may not want to return, but those of you who are intrigued by Oman as a destination may find both this comprehensive travel guide to Oman and this 10-Day Oman Itinerary helpful.
Goodness me, you do moan, don’t you?
Has it not occurred to you that many of your complaints are both trivial, and of your own making?
Your first taxi driver TOLD you that the Big Bus was a waste to money. You didn’t like his “hard sell”, but he turned out gto be right. With hindsight, can you not now see that your best course of action would have been to hire him for a day, and then he could have taken you to places that you wanted to see, and his local knowledge might have added in a few others? Alternatively, if you really did not like that taxi driver, you could have asked the reception at your hotel to find you another dfriver. Negotiate a rate for the day, and all would have been well. (Colleagues of mine working in Saudi Arabia did just that back in 2005).
With respect to the hotel. The first room was probably OK. YOU determined that you would not be able to sleep, not thinking that the traffic noise abates as the night goes on, and in the early hours of the morning traffic is light. The morning rush hour starts at about 0700 hours, so there was no need to keep switching rooms.
With regard to the second room, OK a lockable door is a sensible precaution. BUT, and this is a BIG, BIG BUT. You were in Oman. As a single, middle-aged woman you are far, far, far safer in Oman that you ever are in India. Any woman is safer in Oman than she is in India. And in the end, Room 4 was OK, so was your reception so truly traumatic that we have to read about it blow by blow?
Muscat had only the Al Alam Palace and two Portuguese Forts? Actually, it has a lot more. You took a photo of the Mosque of the Martyrs, but obviously failed to appreciate its significance. You also missed the THREE museums in Muscat – The National Museum, Bait al Faransy and the Bait Zubair. Of course, if you insist on going out in the afternoon, you will find that things are closed, but that is also true of Athens and Madrid. Did you do no research at all before you travelled, or did you not even buy a basic guide book like the Rough Guide?
On your last day you say you ate horrible fast food? May one ask why? Muttrah has the most eclectic mix of cuisine IF you bother to keep your eyes open. There are several hotels along the Muttrah Corniche and the cruise liner trade has encouraged the opening of a at least half a dozen rather up-market places to eat. No one forces you to go to the KFC.
I’m biased. I have lived and worked in Oman since, effectively, 1981 (there was a two year stint in Saudi Arabia 2005-2007). I love Oman. It is my home, and it is home to people I love.
I respect the Omanis and frankly, if you do not come back to this country, then it’s not much loss. What I do object to, however, is the fact that one jet-in-jet-out self appointed expert has the audacity to denigrate the Sultanate on the basis of one VERY brief visit.
Excellent and logical reply sir
To be fair , i’m in oman right now and have been for a week . I feel your complaints , but i feel you were just unlucky. I have interacted with so many locals and even went for a tour to the Wahiba Desert. It all depends with your personality as a person and from what i can read from this , you seem like a person to push away anyone who tried to help you.Anyway , I might be wrong . Please note , i am an african man , and for a country with very few africans , i have enjiyed the trip.
I’m glad it’s been a positive experience for you Mbugua
Hello 🙂
An Omani citizen whom I met in London (UK) has invited me to stop by in Muscat during my trip to Thailand and visit him.
I will only have time to visit the capital (maybe a bit outside the capital, too, if I get lucky). So my question is – how many days would be enough to see the city and what should I see?
Any suggestions my friends?
Of couse you are tourist …IF YOU ARE TRAVEL ! For sure you are welcome
I love OMAN live in OMAN long time
you know the diferentes between you and me? I Visit all countries the world and you are PERFECT TURIST and don’t no nothing about the world …! TYPICAL GRINGO
Learning to have the world…dont believe
Nuno Lobito
Portugal
I am a Brit and I live in Oman. The Omanis are the friendliest, most generous and honest people I have ever met. Both in Muscat and in the Interior you will find that people are welcoming and helpful. The hotel service and cleanliness makes most hotels in London look like back street boarding houses. The beauty of Oman is at times stunning. I live in a community with over 70 nationalities, mostly Europeans, and I can honestly say that everyone I’ve ever met love Oman. The facilities are superb. Not sure what this lady was talking about. Of course everywhere is closed in the afternoons. The Omanis have their siesta just like the Spanish. The golf course is on the European professional tour, the Opera House is awesome with world famous acts, the airport is one of the best in the world, there is about to open one of the largest aquariums in the world etc etc etc. Omani men don’t stare at women as it is considered disrespectful but if you needed help no nationality would help you more.
Hi
Please may i contact you. My husband wants to move there with myself and two children. I am no where near sold and quite scared to move away from the UK.
I want to be able to change my mind about moving there, it will make him happy. But have questions that no one can answer for me. Thanks. And how can i comtact you via email?.
Or if you and others can answer a few questions I would be more than grateful!.
Firstly what are the schools like?
I have two young children and education is very important to me and husband as he is a teacher. I want them both to have a high standard of education and teaching.
What’s the temperature like?
I can just manage 25 degrees in the UK.
And really pathetic when it comes to heat.
Things to do as a family?
Our children love the outdoors what things are there to do. Are there any soft play centres, cinema, bowling,parks, beaches?
Safety and crime rates?
The UK is sadly filled with knife crimes etc.
What about Oman?
What are the people like?
I have heard that Omani are rude and arrogant? Are they actually friendly and helpful.
Religion?
Are there any laws that when broken can have severe consequences? Dress sense etc. As a woman this is a question that I have.
Things to do alone?
Adult things i can do without the children are there.
Thank you
Hi dear,
Did you get the questions answered? I AM AN OMANI I can help.
Regards
Ahmed
So many stupid cliches and false claims. Let’s go, point by point:
– “The hotel service and cleanliness makes most hotels in London look like back street boarding houses” This is only true for the the big hotels belonging to international chains in Muscat and Salalah. The average is pretty miserable, dirty and overpriced, worst than a bench in London’s tube. Even the best are hugely overpriced and the quality of the service is at times subpar, due to the use of cheap and untrained staff from the subcontinent. Try to go to Anantara in the mountain and ask for a tea… they will serve you tea from Lulu, not even bothering to hide the tag, charge you 20 euros for it, and 700 euros/night for a bedroom. I’ve stayed at better 4 star hotels in Europe for 1/5 of that price. In GCC context, Oman’s current accommodation industry doesn’t stand a chance against Dubai.
– “The facilities are superb.” Maybe at the Wave, or PDO village, or the European-populated compound you live in. Real Oman is made of shabby construction. Even parts of flashy The Wave receives constant complaints about leaks, coupled with claims of poor maintenance service. I don’t live amidst Europeans like you, but with Arabic people in average buildings. Your view is a compound-skewed cliche, typical of the European who mistakes the country with their exclusive accommodation.
– “Like Spanish, Omanis close for siesta.” This statement is doubly silly and also typical of a Brit whose worldview is a canvas of thick cliches – Spain are bulls, siesta, sangria, flamenco and ole. First, Spaniards don’t do siesta, unless you are in a village in some godforsaken location in the countryside of Andalusia… in Summer. Second, shops in most Spain don’t close in the afternoon, not even for lunch – this is 2019! I spent my infancy 10 km from the border with Spain, and lived in Asturias for 4 years, while travelling the whole country. You, sir, are what Spaniards call a “guiri”. So, it’s not normal for a country like Oman, which claims to have boosting its tourism as a top national economical priority, allow it’s commerce to close in the afternoon. The same goes for the accommodation industry and tour companies. Overpriced, subpar quality. You can boast all you want about the Omani mountains (they are beautiful, for sure, I love to do field work there) wadis and beaches, but tourists will never acknowledge their beauty if there is no way of getting there without being extremely wealthy. As a destination, Oman is competing with Dubai and, beach-wise, Turkey, Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia. If pricing, infrastructure, service and public outreach don’t come together simultaneously, Oman will never catch up. Oh, policies like the recent huge increase in alcohol tax, was a straight shot in the foot regarding tourism. Just watch people flock to Dubai during the weekends…
That is quite a provocative title and I believe you must have had a truly terrible time to make such a judgment. I wonder though, did you not just judge an entire country and it’s people on your singular short stay experience? Perhaps it would be more gracious of you to write with a more objective view of the culture while still maintaining the autonomy of your subjective experience. Your hotel complaints strike me as petty when you give this horrible experience the same degree of attention as your review of the country and people of Oman. What kind of traveler is so affected by a typical taxi hard sell and a bad hotel? Everyone can relate to bad experiences, which when born alone can feel all the more searing but not everyone would consider a culture based on so little. I was surprised that your disappointments in a culture that was not available to you, at your convenience, for your stay. I would have expected that someone who represents themselves as a well seasoned solo traveler would have been more thoughtful and probing of the culture or social climate rather than judgmental; especially when it seems as if you were there for a week or two at the most. Did you read nothing of the culture of Oman before you arrived? Why did you keep searching for the ‘real Omani people’ as if experiencing their ancient world would somehow be more authentic? Dubai is not a representation of classic Arabic culture but a presentation and accommodation to the west in order to generate income. You mention not a single thing about the fact that this is one of the strictest and most repressive Islamic countries when this is a major factor into this culture in terms of the availability of the people, the hours they may keep, etc…This is the most confused and trite review that I have ever read.
Agree. Can’t believe that the person, who called herself a writer is not so open minded ?
I wouldn’t expect much from an Indian writer who is paid to write so.
If she didn’t have money to spend for the interior, why does she say she will go to other places for now until when things are fixed?
You get for what you pay and you must have been sleeping to some hotels in Ruwi area in which they mostly being used by Indians. She came here obviously without a plan and I wonder who sponsored her visa. I doubt she is even a writer and a photographer. She is just a paid character to write what they wanted him or her to write.
For her lessons, no you can’t go to any Omani/ local and ask to take photos. I am Omani and I wouldn’t accept. Traditionally you simply can’t. As a young Omani guy, I can be tolerant to your needs if I wanted to but that doesn’t mean I am rude or not friendly. Learn about the culture before you step into that country. It’s like traveling to the North Pole with pajamas. Can you?
Next time she travels, she should have enough money as a tourist and not as a moderate local who wants to get everything for free. If you are are in trouble we will help you.
Our hospitality is outstanding and we are proud of it.
Hi
If you and others can answer a few questions I would be more than grateful!.
My husband is a teacher and would like to move to Oman.
Firstly what are the schools like?
I have two young children and education is very important to me and husband as he is a teacher. I want them both to have a high standard of education and teaching. To do well and have a fantastic future like any parent.
What’s the temperature like?
I can just manage 25 degrees in the UK.
And really pathetic when it comes to heat. Can i get use to the heat?
Things to do as a family?
Our children love the outdoors what things are there to do. Are there any soft play centres, cinema, bowling,parks, beaches?
Safety and crime rates?
The UK is sadly filled with knife crimes etc.
What about Oman?
What are the people like?
I have heard that Omani are rude and arrogant? Do they mingle with people like myself if i moved to Oman.
Religion?
Are there any laws that when broken can have severe consequences? Dress sense etc.
Things to do alone?
Adult things i can do without the children are there. Excercise, dining etc.
Thank you.
Well said brother. Her taxi ride and hotel experience is not what oman or people of Oman is.
Hello,
I just visited Muscat, Oman on an overland trip from Dubai. We found it fascinating and lovely in general. And we found most of the people friendly and helpful – some folks who could not speak English were shy but most others were gracious. The scenery was spectacular and the food was delicious. It was not cheap – but it was not expensive and we were able to rent a tow bedroom hotel suite for about USD 125 a night. Clean and easy with lots of nearby restaurants. I think that you travelling alone may have been what seemed odd to Omanis but nonetheless we found it friendly and easy. The only downer was the very long holiday border crossing coming back to Dubai. We will be back!
Don’t say that you are “connecting the world through storytelling” when your writing has such a tone of entitlement. You claim to be this adventurous traveler, but you have failed. You failed because experiencing a culture and its people happens on their terms, not yours–it means you are an outsider looking in and respecting customs even if you don’t understand. It means being open to cultural ways completely foreign to your own, and taking the good with the bad. Oman is still figuring out the whole tourism thing, and because of that, it’s still charming and relatively untouched. Maybe your negative article will keep tourists from going to Oman, and in turn, will help the country retain its innocence for a little longer. I see other posts recommending you to go back and try again…I say stay away from this place where your privileged attitude is not welcome.
I agree completely with you DJ Chris, I personally visited Oman several times in the last three years as a single female traveller and it’s all about being in one place and trying to soak it all up and just go with the flow if you really do embrace other cultures.
I fell in life with Oman the 1st time I visited and I will be returning whenever I can.
Beautiful untouched country, with some beautiful (original Omani) people, sure not everyone will want to talk to you, just like anywhere else in the world.. the country is still developing and trying to catch up with Dubai, but somehow I hope they never do, becasue that’s the beauty of Oman..
And the doors on the hotel balcony.. well, granted a good hotel should have a door that locks but it tickled me, because in a place where you can loose your mobile phone in a bar and you know you will find it the next day after someone handed it in, a balcony door that doesn’t lock most certainly isn’t a problem.. ?
I just hope that the lady who wrote this article went back and seen the real Oman in all its beauty with all it has to offer .. ?????
You took the words right out of my mouth! I am a photo journalist and the number 1 rule visiting any country is respect! Respect the land, respect the people, and don’t act entitled because you’re not!
Well said, DJ Chris… but I would like to ask people willimg to visit Oman (like myself) not to rely on articles, comments and other peoples experiences. It’s their experience, their story… I invite everyone willing to visit not only Oman but any country to have their own impressions, build own memories and make their own stories…
It is useful to read them, no doubt about that, but do make own path…
Perusing your article I got intrigued to visit Oman! Much appreciated!
You’re very welcome David
Having just returned from Oman five days ago, I thought I was seeing things when I read the title of your post. My daughter and I traveled alone for a week, driving ourselves 1,200 kilometers through the country with gps from the sim card we bought at the airport. I’m still on a high from the wonderful experiences we had there–and yes, we travel a lot and have many countries to compare it to. Oman is my new favorite country–not only because of its spectacular natural wonders and rich history, but mainly because the Omanis were the kindest, most giving people we’ve ever encountered. We were invited twice to coffee and once to dinner–both by people we had just met. I’m guessing that a large portion of your unfortunate experiences stem from the fact that your attitude was less than positive… Many people–especially Americans, unfortunately–have an air of entitlement–even if they don’t mean to. I’ve seen it time and again. Of course, attitudes come through, so if the Omanis picked up on it, you can’t be surprised that you were met with cool responses. No country is perfect and no country is obligated to bend to your every desire–you are there as a guest. A good traveler understands that, and also understands that you get what you give.
Oman is a beautiful country with the most warmhearted people. It was home to me and my family for 40 years. The hospitality and generosity of the people is unbelievable. They are always ready to extend a hand and welcome anyone to share a meal. It’s sad that you were dissatisfied with your visit. Sometimes it is good to experience a different pace of life. Oman is special – it’s beautiful and down-to-earth.
you are a horrible person
Oman is small country… people are there ( Omanis) are only friendly with beautiful young females from Europe or certain Arab counties such as Morocco…this is the reality a lot of people deny….young generation of Omanis is very hostile toward expats, wrongly thinking that those expat are the cause of all their misfortunes… it is waste of time and money to visit Oman for tourism….the world is full of wonderful and cheap destinations where people are so friendly….Arabs in general are arrogant…lazy and depend on expats and at the same time hate expats..Oman itself is considered as a third world country as they do not manufactures anything of worth ..just importing and consuming….may be after 500 yeas they will manufacture a pencil
Really???
Yes you are right I suggest you’ve had a terrible experience of visiting Oman State! Actually I’m a Canadian citizen travelled through London to Oman and to Colombo… so at t London airport the Oman connecting flight is at a lonely and very far location one hour to walk through in London inside the air port at the checking point bags all examined terribly, I had my personal things shaving machine and dye to my beard it was peroxide and the white cream the foolish guy who said its an explosive items and scanning me and typing a statement I was very scared when I land at Oman they will put me on trial in jail it was a terrible experience. Do not travel via Oman or not to enter its good for the slaves to the Arabs. Mostly Arab world is a danger zone to travel any thing will happen beware!!!!
Wow, just wow….
At Heathrow they examine your underpants. New regulation. Everywhere’s the same. Blame Tony Blair for all this. Drives me mad too.
You seem a bit entitled don’t you? Oman isn’t a country known for a thriving tourism industry. Get over yourself.
?
?? #Preach
Hi Barbara, Hi Everyone,
I am sorry that you had an experience that you did not enjoy. I wonder what it could have been? I have friends who have lived in Oman for many years, and who very much enjoy the relaxed life style.
I spent some time in the country in 2014, walking from Muscat through Samail to Nizwa, then cutting up into the mountains through Tanuf, Al Hamra and up on to Jebel Shams, then through the mountains to Al Ayn, Ibri, and across the border into Al Ain, before finishing up in Dubai.
I met nothing but hospitality along the way, and good cheer. In fact my progress was impeded by the number of people calling too me, sending children after me, inviting me into their homes. I was looking for something, and I found it; peace and tranquility of the mountains and the deserts, society and hospitality in the towns and villages along the way.
Somewhere in a village beween the Mountains of Jebel Kawr and Jebel Shams, moving quickly at night and enjoying the cool, I disturbed a lady moving between houses, which led to much shouting and gesticulation as the village came to life. I explained myself briefly, as best I could, and made off. Later, looking back, I noticed lights following me from the village.
I was unsure if this delegation was good or bad, but I could not outrun them and waited. They had been sent from the village to call me back, to stay with them because of the rain, and at my refusal to return were insistent that I should at least stay clear of the Wadis because of the danger of flash flooding.
I was walking towards a village one morning when an old man stopped in his car. \’Get in\’ he said, \’Get in\’, but I refused, because I like walking. He pointed out his house a mile away, and so I went. When I got there children came out and fetched me into the house, and we sat in the guest room drinking tea and eating apples. It transpired this was not the house of my earlier invitation but another, and a great example of the random kindness I came across time and gain in Oman.
I suspect you have seen a small part of Oman which did not do justice to the people or the country as a whole. You should try them again!
With best wishes,
Chris
Hi Chris: You are among a number of people who have written eloquently about their time and experiences in Oman, and I very much appreciate that. My experience was not good, as you read, however you may be correct that I need to give the country another chance.
Hi Barbara, If you wish to return I would be happy to help with a very few contacts and some ideas about where to go. The travel book of all travel books for this region, although 60 years out of date, is ‘Arabian Sands’ by Wilfred Thesiger. He was a wonderful writer and photographer. If you are not enraptured by his descriptions, then look elsewhere, but perhaps reading some of his work might give you an appetite. I read his books 30 years ago, and for the last ten have been working and traveling in places he would recognise; Afghanistan, Libya, now Iraq. As he wrote about the deserts of the Arabian Peninsular so I have thought of my work places, ‘This Cruel land can cast a spell which no temperate clime can match’.
With very best wishes,
Chris
Thanks so much for the offer Chris. If I decide to give Oman another try I’ll be sure to let you know.
Yes well next time Barbara don’t talk so much rot. No excuses. You started with prejudices and ended with prejudices but you got your ridiculous article printed so that’s ok for you. Oman is the best and friendliest country I have ever visited which is why I decided to live in Oman. Superb beaches, great food and stunning scenery in the Interior. Both my neighbours come from Europe, one Canadian and one English. Both, like me, have fallen in love with Oman. What did you do? Eat at the cheapest restaurants you could find? Greasy spoon cafe in Ruwi (although I like Ruwi and the Asians who live there are friendly) Try to find a hotel for £2 GBP a night? You are NOT a travel writer. Just someone who wanted to get a bit of nonsense on the Internet. No pity for someone who condemns my second home without thinking. Of course in spite of our problems I still love the UK . Stay in that concrete jungle Dubai for your hols next time where there is hardly any natural beauty. I am stuck in Dubai at the moment for family reasons. I keep looking for the natural beauty of Oman. No chance and you’re lucky to find any Emiratis let alone culture. But the people are friendly and Dubai is safe and the hotels are good. I wouldn’t condemn it. Great for shopping which my wife loves and I find boring. But one man’s poison and all that. Sorry Barbara but you deserved a good Brit response. An Omani would be far too respectful to write this.
I have never been to Oman, but I’ve been to other middle eastern countries and I had both pleasant and very bad experiences. I think it is important to prepare yourself that you are going to a country with completely different culture, traditionas and lifestyle than your own. If we get out of our protective personal bubble and explore the world it is inevitable to be poked here and there. I think you should give Oman a second chance and this time make the necessary adjustments to improve your overall experience. If you approach it with a possitive attitude maybe Oman will open up to you from a different, more pleasant side.
Sorry that you didn’t like Muscat and Oman in general. I absolutely understand what you meant to say as Oman and other GCC countries are overwhelmed with cheap mercenaries and beggars from the Indian subcontinent who run away from their third world/ failed states and end up being illegal immigrants. They are also doing a lot of cultural, economic, social and demographic damage here. But don’t worry, I hope you visit Oman again in the near future….(note from Barbara Weibel, the owner of this blog: I edited this comment to eliminate the racist, foul-mouthed final two sentences. I do not tolerate this kind of language or sentiment on my site).
beggars huh, these are the beggars that build your houses and roads, so be a bit more grateful please
Oh dear, Big Smoke? More like Hot Air. Ever visited Oman? Of course you haven’t. The mercenaries are bombing innocent people and are mostly western countries. Begging is almost non-existent in Oman and the Asian people are invariably friendly and hard working. Typical ignorant racism Hot Air. Sorry Big Smoke.
I\’ve never been to Muscat but was curious to learn more about the city.
I chanced on this while doing a bit of research and thanks to the blog and comments by other readers, feel that I\’ve got quite a wholesome view of Muscat.
Truly liked the pictures of the city which offer good insights esp. the one with the corniche and the \’giant incense burner\’ in the background.
Thanks so much John. Glad you enjoyed my story and photos.
Not speaking specifically for Oman but in general;
As a rule of thumb, whenever you haven’t got consent for a picture assume it is a no. This is especially among “traditional” (or what people would term traditional) cultures. Additionally many people are okay with having their picture taken/videos made if its for personal use, but if they learn u have a website or vlog they will usually decline, thus its best nowadays to be truthful and tell the person what use you intend to do with their image. Remember whether a country is open to tourism or not, the locals have a certain appreciation/understanding of appropriateness which is not the same as “ours”.
Additionally many cultures especially Asiatic ones i find promote or live by a certain separation of genders, where the man will not want to interact or even deign to show a certain acknowledgement of females and vice versa, but are quite willing to mingle and help within the gender. Furthermore, if you want to interact with locals try and learn the timings of locals, usually immigrants get tasked with the jobs the locals do not want to do, thus you will see them more commonly at all hours while natives tend to have more leisurely times. For example in hot countries you usually see people come out early in the night as the heat breaks, in agrarian society or some fishing communities it is the early morning which is most boisterous. Also as a rule many warmer countries have a downtime or an actual siesta time around midday where u often wont find anyone about and economic activities are actually halted.
Dont be too distrusting of the people in the country often they can help you negotiate tourist trap and have a more real experience. But of course use common sense in your interaction. Also when choosing hotels realise that most towns have hotels for low-level budgets and business travellers within the country. For a better experience accomodation wise, look for hotels geared towards tourist of a higher level, they usually better maintained and yes safer even for male traveller.
Well said!
It is not a state’s job to accommodate tourists (e.g. you). You also describe Omani culture as incomprehensible: “I later learned the centuries-old game, which is just as incomprehensible as the local culture, is exclusive to Oman.” If you think you can visit a space for 5 days and comprehend its culture, you are sorely mistaken. Culture is ingrained from birth and embedded in a lifetime of learning. The idea that you can grasp the country of Oman and its people and culture in just 5 days is absurd. Your assessment that the culture is incomprehensible is both ethnocentric and eurocentric. The local culture does not need to accommodate to you or be comprehensible to you, yet you demean it for not doing so.
Hi Barbara,
Thank you very much for your honest opinion. It’s really appreciated.
I agree with you that Muscat lacks charm, is expensive and overrated, and I would never go back. However, the rest of Oman is quite different, specially if you like mountains and deserts.
Keep writing,
Yours,
Egle
Thank you so much Egle. I suspect my experience would have been much different if I could have identified a tour company tht would allow me to join a group tour as a solo, but I guess the country is just not set up for that yet.
Hello Barbara,
I appreciate your courage to travel to locations by yourself as a woman and trying to immerse yourself in the culture. To look at this from a different angle, imagine you and 3 of your best girlfriends lived in a quaint, coastal city where all of you were raised, which was purposefully removed from the hustle and bustle of a major metropolis. Then, imagine if you met your 3 best girlfriends every Saturday morning at the beach across the street from your apartment building to take a private yoga or meditation with only the four of you and the female instructor you hired. What if one Saturday, a strange man who was a foreigner in middle eastern dress, was perusing a couple local shops when he spotted you and your friends, approached with a camera in hand, then stepped into the group’s personal space without your invitation and stared while growing increasingly frustrated when your instructor didn’t stop the private lesson to cater to a strange man whose non verbal queues implied he felt he deserved to be accomodated. Then, as you and your friends hope he will go away because you are mid-downward dog, he started taking pictures of you and your friends without asking?
Fast forward a couple of weeks, and you notice a foreign blog reviewing the city you love and call home, then notice the picture of the writer is the same man who took pictures. Not only does his article bash you and your friends for refusing to accomodate his needs, but it includes one of the pictures he took of your class that day, and one of your girlfriends was very careful about posting photos on social media due to a disgruntled ex-husband and her desire to remain private and under the radar.
Would that bother you? I’m sure your intentions were genuine, but maybe they just wanted to enjoy their weekly game without intrusions from foreigners who were univited guests to their country.
Just a different perspective, but I do understand how one might’ve been offput until thinking it through.
Sincerely,
Ava
Hi Ava: I appreciate your view and the thought put into it, but I don’t think it’s an apt comparison. First of all, I would never have approached what was obviously an organized class with an instructor, as I would assume it was an activity for which attendees had paid a fee. This was not an organized class, but a few locals sitting on the sidewalk. And perhaps I am seeing it through my eyes, as a person who always tries to be kind. Whenever someone smiles at me or says hello, I smile back and reply back. The language doesn’t matter; it is always clear that people are just greeting me. My issue was with the Omanis I encountered being so totally unfriendly. Especially in these difficult times, there’s no need for people to be rude. Even a nod in my direction would have made it OK. You end your comment with this: “I’m sure your intentions were genuine, but maybe they just wanted to enjoy their weekly game without intrusions from foreigners who were univited guests to their country.” Am I an uninvited guest? That would imply they don’t want tourists to visit the country, which is obviously not the case. My point is, why would I ever want to return to a country where I was treated with such disdain? I have a choice where I spend my tourist dollars and I certainly prefer to spend them in a place where I feel welcome.
Oh dear Barbara, you’re still at it. Total rot like your make-believe article. Stay in Bognor Regis next time. Actually it’s quite nice in BR but doesn’t compare to Oman. Visit Oman and most people will fall in love with its natural beauty, culture and above all its people. Well done Barbara your article has just tripled Oman’s tourist trade at a stroke.
You clearly went to the wrong places
After just returning from my second trip to Oman, to Dubai where I have lived for 6 years, I am surprised by a few things but the first one was that you were upset about not meeting any Omanis. Did you meet any in the UAE just passing through? I suspect only at immigration. Also, why does one expect to travel and meet local people in search of some authentic local experience. Let the locals be, they are sharing their space with you and often they just want to go on with their day. You taking a photo of the men playing the game in the street without permission and basically stalking them to try to find out how to play the game was quite rude and intrusive. In other GCC countries, this would have gotten you into trouble for harrasment if the locals would have made a complaint about you. I believe these men were nice to just ignore you and not get you into trouble. Think about being at a cafe with your friends in your country and foreigners showing up to photograph you and treat you this way. I am sure you would not have allowed it. This is the Middle East, things run a little differently and still in many ways the local people have not totally sold out to tourism which is respectful. Traveling anywhere affordable takes research, why would you expect Oman to be any different? I think you had unrealistic expectations, did not see enough of the country and did not prepare well for your trip. I hope you change your mind and have a chance to return to explore more. Oman is very different from the UAE and that is what makes is special.
You meet tons of different people in Dubai. Especially Emiratis, I don’t know where you lived in Dubai for 6 years. 26 years in Dubai and counting.
One man’s meat. I’m a country boy. My daughters like Dubai and so does my wife. Not for me. But doesn’t mean it’s a terrible place. Glad you like it. Happy for you Dale.
I must have visited a completely different country only 6 months ago and my opinion could not be more different to yours. Oman is one of the most beautiful countries I’ve visited (and I travel quite a lot) and Muscat is a beautiful / charming city. From reading your blog post, it seems that you planned your trip very poorly (or selected the wrong hotels / transport). Renting a car is not a problem at all, and signs all over Oman are in English (and we traveled for 2 full weeks with our car with no problems). So no idea how your friends got lost!! I would encourage the readers to take your opinion with a pinch of salt and venture into the wonderful Oman… they won’t be disappointed with its capital city (with the most beautiful mosque in the world… and if you like fresh fruit juices, you will be in paradise!) Wadis, castles, deserts, souks, amazing mosques…. they all be waiting for you in this beautiful country. Don’t want to be harsh, but I don’t think you are being fair with such beautiful country and city (so beautiful, that I am thinking about retiring there when I grow old, lol).
I completely agree with you, Ivan. Upon arriving we got a rental car with no problem and for guidance while driving we used the GPS app Waze. The app worked well and got us to all of our locations just fine. We were able to get to the Bimmah sinkhole and Wadi Shab with no problems. As Ivan mentioned ALL the signs are also in English. If you are coming from America or Europe be prepared for a money exchange that’ll make you cry, $1 OMR= $2.90 USD OR $1= 2.60 EUR. Nonetheless, this still a country to visit and experience.
Places to eat:
Turkish house restaurant (amazing seafood/ Lobster)
Tacoman (aunthentic Mexican food)
Places to visit:
Mutrah Souq
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (8-11am for non-Muslims everyday except Friday)
Wadi Shab
Bimmah Sinkhole
Royal Opera House
Lulu hyper market (if you forget things such as sunblock, underwear, socks etc)
Alcohol: (sold/served from 12-11pm at many places)
Duty free at the airport
Hotels
Lived here 8 years. Yes.. the bus tour is overpriced – and doesn’t go anywhere interesting.. They cater for the cruise ships. For taxis you just needed to download the Marhaba taxi app (blue taxis).. or bargain better in the orange taxis – you tell them the price (and never take the red taxis – if you can avoid it). There is also a super cheap bus service. Food.. check trip advisor, eat omani shuwa.. go to Kargeen maybe. Visit the wadis and mountains.. Stay in the desert.. ride along with The Guide oman on a desert crossing. Muttrah – You’re not going to meet anyone before 4pm… everyone is sleeping, places get busy 6pm – this is courtesy of 50 degree heat. Omanis ARE super friendly.. but unfortunately not all of them speak english, and not all of them have the means or time to show every tourist around.. BUT I have never experienced more generosity or kindness anywhere else in the world.. these people will share their last mouthful of food with you. Lastly.. safety. In 3 if the 4 houses I lived in the front door was never locked. You can leave your laptop on the table and safely go for a walk and not worry it will be stolen.. or leave your car running and nip into a shop. And yes, Dubai is just for shopping and clubbing.
Thanks for all the good advice Steve.
I have never been to Oman but your blog has made me more interested in seeing the place. You went without really looking where you were going. Hot places and Humid places tend to have what ppl in central, and south America call Siesta Time…so not surprised you found no locals out during the hottest time of the day. I think that you should try it again but this time with more wizend eyes. plenty of ppl here have given you clues and tips try it and see if you still feel the same. When I came to a certain country in the ME I met two girls from England who hated their time in the country, mostly because they never thought about finding out about local culture and other things that as a guest anywhere (even if its someone you have never met but have been invited to meet as it were\’s, house; I mean for example you might ask before going to said house is wine appropriate? you might think it is but maybe the person for what ever reason can\’t have wine….well I am sure you get my meaning) I remember being in a certain beautiful town in Switzerland and because I have been there often enough not to be , the local term is Hyben Uslander( = for Gringo) I could tell the local kids off for they said….shocked the H out of them. I have lived or traveled to many different parts of the world, My family since now I live In the ME are helpful to tourists like you who run into the Cabby problem…telling them… prices, how to report a \”bad\” driver (bad in this case can be anything from stealing to assaulting you etc.) One tourist want to hand my kid money but my kid (we are far from rich) would not take the money…the tourist couldn\’t understand it.
So yes I get it, been through your version in my travels, it is what made me better at learning from such mistakes.
I am curious does such a place allow for tourist to go fishing, camping etc? And no as a single woman in that country you are far safer then you might be in either Saudi or other arab countries.
If you do go back I would be interested in an update of your experience.
I’m a fishing fanatic. Oman is brilliant for fishing but still trying to catch that 300 lb Tuna. ?Don’t use the tourist fishing boats because I think they’re expensive. Lots of great beach fishing but do your research on which beaches are the best.
Two things my family do not like pics being taken, so you asked but got no answer assume the answer is no.
Also is the first pic with all those pointy rock like structures there to keep keep ppl out or is there another reason, I ask because they remind me of when I was a kid in a certain part of Switzerland they had something like those near a river (okay all along the river where there was no road and just woodland bank) I was told it was from the WW2 to keep tanks etc from crossing.
Hi L. Morgan. Thse j=kinds of rocks are generally used to buttress up shorelines and protect against erosion and/or high waves.
I lived in Oman for 4 years, and yes it isn’t Kansas, Dorothy. If you want cheap transportation, rent a car or take the “Baiza” busses the ex-pat workers use- they cost $1. Taxis are always a rip-off everywhere in the world, and designed for dumb tourists.
Food is not a high point, but their are decent restaurants that any resident knows about. Most Omani’s live in near poverty, so they can’t support the unlimited array of chain restaurants you are used to. I used to go to a pub on the beach where a proper English meal could be had for $10. Woodlands had the best Indian food and served beer after noon – the meal was never more than $20 for the 3 of us. The Lebanese restaurants were all good and had takeout, and there were even a few decent Chinese restaurants. All the hotels have decent offerings, usually poolside, but they are not really for the budget minded.
Muscat is rapidly erasing its cultural heritage in pursuit of everything modern, but the forts in Nizwa, wadi Shab, and a night in the Wahiba sands are “must sees”. Limiting yourself to Muscat, would be like going to the U.S. and only visiting Detroit. The Muttrah souk is a tourist trap akin to Fisherman’s wharf in San Francisco – wouldn’t be on my top 100 places to visit, sorry you shaped your opinion based on that. I think whenever you demand a place conform to tourists needs, you end up with Disneyfied places like Dubai, Oman certainly is more authentic than any other place I visited in the Gulf, and offered a once-in-a-lifetime work experience.