I squinted in the pre-dawn grayness, searching for signs of the tropical pink water lilies that carpet the surface of Nong Han Lake every winter. A few minutes earlier, my friend Anne and I had gingerly climbed into a tippy flat-bottomed wooden boat for our ride to the center of the lake. There, the lily blooms are the most extravagant, earning this small inland body of water the nickname Red Lotus Lake.
Soon the hot pink blossoms began to appear. In the dim light, most were still closed; their petals spread wide each morning when kissed by the sun’s first rays. When the sun finally crested a distant bank of clouds, everything was awash in pure golden light for a few breathtaking moments. The placid surface of the water turned bronze and reflected the giant orange orb as it rose in the sky. On queue, the lilies slowly opened to the sun’s warmth and life-giving energy.
Nong Han Lake is more of a marsh than a lake. It is about four miles long but only two to three feet deep on average. Much of the swampy shoreline is lined with tall grasses, thus the lily patches can’t be seen from shore. The ever clever Thais have capitalized on this magnificent phenomenon. Using small boats that accommodate two passengers and a slightly larger canopy-covered boat that can accommodate up to seven, they offer 90-minute tours to witness the most vibrant blooms. The boats operate from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m., every day of the week, and cost 300 baht (about $9 USD) for the small boat and 500 baht (about $15 USD) for the larger boat.
Our captain was most obliging. When we asked him about distant birds that appeared to be walking on water, he immediately motored into an area where the surface of the lake was covered by spongy green vegetation. We were astonished to see these large grey, orange, and purple birds, which we later determined to be grey-headed swamphens, walking across the top of floating water lettuce. The birds were completely unafraid and let us drift toward them until we were just feet away.
Of course, the most stunning spectacle was the unbroken sea of pink lilies stretching as far as we could see. It did not escape me that the lake’s nickname is Talay Bua Daeng, which translates as Red Lotus Sea. The flowers are pink rather than red. They are actually a variety of lily rather than a Lotus, and the inland lake is hardly a sea. But…Thai’s rarely let facts get in the way of a good nickname. And those amusing discrepancies certainly didn’t diminish the jaw-dropping sight of millions of blossoms carpeting the surface of the lake.
How to get to Udon Thani
Nong Han Lake is located in northeast Thailand, in Udon Thani province, approximately 25 miles southeast of the provincial capital city of Udon Thani. The best way to get to Udon Thani is to fly. Our flight from Chiang Mai on Nok Air was less than $100 round trip and was only an hour and 10 minutes long. Upon arrival at the airport, visitors can hire a shuttle to take them to their accommodations. Better yet, use the Grab app to order a Grab Taxi, which is a much cheaper option than the shuttle.
Getting to Nong Han Lake and the Red Lotus Sea
Blooming season for the lilies is from mid-October through mid-February, however the absolute peak time for viewing is from mid-December through early January. Any hotel or guest house in Udon Thani can arrange for a day tour to the lake, however we opted to hire a private driver, as we wanted to arrive before dawn. The lilies begin to close again around 11 a.m., when temperatures rise, so it’s best to be there early. Having a car and driver at our disposal also allowed us to include other destinations in our itinerary. In addition to a couple of interesting wats (temples), we visited a home-based textile shop, where we learned about the region’s unique hand-loomed designs that are based on ancient pottery found throughout the region. We also fit in a stop at Ban Chiang National Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that displays graves and artifacts from what some believe is the oldest Bronze Age settlement in the world.
I found our driver, Ong, through a retired expat who lives in Udon Thani. He had glowing things to say about her, so I decided to make contact. For the next couple of days we chatted back and forth and talked on the phone. She quoted us 2,000 baht (less than $60 USD) for the day, plus gasoline, which maybe added anther $25 USD. She spoke great English, was unendingly cheerful, and even arranged for us to eat at places where I could get vegetarian food. I highly recommend Ong for your travels in Udon Thani and the surrounding area. For more information, visit Ong’s website, or call her at +66 (0)81 054 8055.
If you enjoyed this story, you may also be interested in:
The Bua Thong Flower Festival in Mae Hong Son Province, Thailand
Dantewada “Land of Angels” Waterfall Park, the Newest Attraction in Mae Taeng, Thailand
Good to have you back again
thailand is poop
bad things are coming for you
i have no opinion on thailand
I’m reading the Hole in the Donut Cultural Travel article on the Red Lotus Lake in Udon Thani, Thailand, and I’m absolutely mesmerized by the photos. The lake is absolutely stunning, and the red lotus flowers are so vibrant. I can’t imagine how beautiful it must be to see in person.
I’m definitely adding the Red Lotus Lake to my travel bucket list. It looks like an absolutely magical place, and I can’t wait to see it for myself.
Wow, your blog post has ignited my wanderlust! The stunning landscapes and captivating storytelling make me feel like I’m right there with you. Can’t wait to plan my own adventure and experience the magic of travel!
Barbara, haven\’t seen notice of your posts in a long time! So, I certainly enjoyed this post and seeing your stunning photos of Red Lotus Sea — it\’s amazing! Thanks for sharing your trip to this lovely place with us. Be well!
Hi Sylvia: Yes, I’ve been on sort of a hiatus. I’m not sure how much longer I want to keep the blog going, but so many people write with sentiments similar to yours thatI think I’ll keep it going for a while longer. At 71, I no longer want to travel for months at a time, but there are still places I want to see, Thanks so much for your kind words.
dont look under your bed tonight
Dear Barbara,
GreAT article on Thailand.
Love it!
Next year woul love to visit there, Thailand/.
Thanks so much Rene. Love to finally meet you if you come to Chiang Mai.
Oh Barbara, I have missed your posts. So happy to have this one greet me today. Welcome back!
Hi Merna: Thanks so much for that. I have been thinking about selling the blog but, like you, so many people have written to say they are glad to see me again, that I might just keep it going for a little while longer.
Absolutely beautiful.
Thanks so much Biff. Hope you are well.
Barbara, Glad to see you back. Love the lilies, reminds me of lake in Michigan I lived in when I was a kid. Only the lilies were white.
Sue McCarthy
Hi Sue! Yes, I took a little sabbatical. I occasionally think I should give it up, since I’m now 71, but I think I still have some travels left in me.
Good to have you back again, Barbara. What wonderful pictures of your tour to the lake of lilies which make me want to get back to Thailand again.
Hi Berry: I have to say that living here has opened up another world – especially since I now speak a little Thai and can go to the lesser known areas. So glad you enjoyed my article about the Lotus Lake.
Barbara, thanks so much – this story was a lovely way to start my day, and is also so inspiring! Can’t wait to read your next post!
-Heidi
Hi Heidi. I don’t publish as much as I used to because I’m now in my 70’s and don’t travel as much. However I do have a few new articles on the schedule. I so appreciate your kind words.
Been following you for years. You are a heroine for me – courageous, kind and adventurous. Be well.
Thanks so much Patricia! Very kind f you to say, and I appreciate your loyalty.
I have always wanted to see this, thanks for the suggestion of the tour guide. You post gives me the best impression of the experience on the lake I’ve seen, as usually it’s just photos of the person and the flowers! Great post.
Thanks so much Jenny! You must let me know if and when you are Thailand bound.
Love these photos–wow! I enjoy kayaking and photographing the water along the way–I would love to visit a lake this beautiful!
Bird-watching in a setting like this just adds so much to the overall experience. Glad you could watch those birds from near.
Barbara I enjoyed this story so much it was beautiful thank you for sharing it I look forward to seeing more of your travels and stories.
Thank you Julia. There’s a lot more to see here in Thailand than the big tourist sites. Glad you enjoyed my story.