I just don’t get it. For years I’ve been hearing about San Miguel de Allende. People rave about it being the place to go in Mexico, pointing to its huge American expat community, its strong ties to arts and culture, its lovely architecture, etc., etc. But for some reason, I just could not make up my mind if I wanted to spend any time in San Miguel, so I opted for a day tour from Guanajuato to check it out.
It may have had something to do with the fact that I was on a detested tour, being subjected to stops at the guide’s preferred stores to shop and his favorite “excellent buffet” (isn’t that an oxymoron?) restaurant for lunch. Or it may just be that seeing Guanajuato first has ruined me for all other Mexican cities, but basically, I couldn’t wait to leave San Miguel de Allende.
Its central plaza is a lovely, lushly planted open space with the obligatory gazebo (band kiosk), shoeshine stands, and food vendors. But despite the placid scene, there was a heaviness about the city. People slouched on benches, immobile but for swatting at an occasional mosquito. The few people moving about the square seemed to dredge up their last ounce of energy to take the next sluggish step. Even the massive pink granite church anchoring the square has an inferiority complex: though it looks like a Cathedral it is only a parish church.
Walking up and down the hilly streets of the historic center I could appreciate the wealth of colonial architecture, but as almost every structure is painted in some shade of brown, gold, or terracotta I quickly grew weary of the sights to the point that I stopped taking pictures. Back at the Plaza, I noticed a real estate office and, being a former RE/MAX agent, I couldn’t help but poke my head in the door and introduce myself to the agent on duty while waiting for our tour guide to collect us for the return trip. Since real estate sales depend upon Americans who can pay cash, it’s been a tough couple of years for business in San Miguel; as the U.S. real estate market goes, so goes the San Miguel market. More than most Mexican cities it is feeling the depressed economy, and this may be the heavy energy that I felt.
I realize it is quite impossible to get to know a city in a couple of hours during a day tour, and there is undoubtedly much that I did not see or experience. San Miguel de Allende may indeed harbor a thriving cultural and arts community. The food (other than buffet lunches) may indeed be exquisite. But I always rely on my gut, and in this case it told me quite clearly that I don’t want to spend any more time in this Mexican city.
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One cannot get to know San Miguel de Allende — or any other place, for
that matter — in a couple of hours, especially if those couple of
hours are spent on a guided tour. The city is full of art galleries and
wonderful restaurants and is noted for its many fiestas every year
(almost one a week). You have to sleep in San Miguel to hear the night
bells ringing, the fireworks, the snowy egrets waking up in the pecan
trees in the morning. The parroquia lit in the darkness. It takes more
than a few hours to visit the wonderful shrine of Atotonilco or go
horseback riding in Coyote Canyon or take a leisurely walk through the
botanical gardens or Parque Juarez. Sure, San Miguel has a good
percentage of retirees from the US and other countries, but there are
also many younger Americans who have made the city home and started
businesses, opened galleries, or volunteered in the local community. Is
this a good thing or not? I suppose that remains to be seen. Still,
these folks love their adopted city. Perhaps its like acquiring a taste
for wine; it can sometimes take awhile to love a place. On the other
hand, many foreigners who call, or have called, San Miguel home have
said they fell in love instantly. Like Stirling Dickinson, for example,
who stepped off a bus as a young man and stayed a lifetime. That’s
immersion.
Hi Klz: I am sure that everything you said is correct – I even said the same thing in my post about it not being possible to really get the feel of a place on any short visit. My problem, I suspect, is that I fell in love with Guanajuato and since my heart had already been captured, San Miguel did not resonate with me. But I really appreciate your thoughtful, non-accusatory comment. I’m sure there are many, many reasons to love SMA and am very happy you have found it so.
I would still visit this city just to take pictures, plus it’s World Heritage Site. But I do see this city becoming a sort of city for the elderly kind of place. They recently opened a huge retirement home but in contrast a luxurious Hotel Rosewood just opened a few months ago.
I totally agree with you Barbara. I spent a month at language school in Guanajuato. I loved that town. I also did a day trip to San Miguel– and I wasn’t that impressed either.
My head is spinning because frankly there is too much to write back regarding your comments, your lack of adventure, your inability to look further— off the beaten path, at the true culture of the city (not the expat American retirie community), the roots of the city, its Indian past, the ghost of Revolutionaries, artists (again, not just the American expat community).
My god, there’s so much there/here but for a traveler that wants everything packaged neaty in an English speaking tour (which you can actually find here quite easily), for an American that needs a Mexican experience handed to them with their American ideals and expectations… well there’s only one thing to say.
You are not traveling. Not truely. And quite frankly I don’t even see a writter’s spirit in your experience or in your writting.
All I can say without out writting a 30 page email to you is RESPECT the place you are exploring, RESPECT the culture you are new to, RESPECT the unknow.
Did you know that “respect” means to look again?
Look again and you will see something very different.
Hi there,
First of all, I could never, EVER make an opinion about a city on a couple hour tour, let alone one of those cattle driven, dreaded group tours… which i never take! I spent 3 incredible weeks in SMA on my first trip there 2 years ago, travelling alone there with my 4 year-old daughter, sharing a casita with my best friend and her daughter. You truly MISSED the magic of the city. I feel sad for you because we ate at amazing restaurants, stood in line for the freshest homemade corn tortillas, watched fireworks and full moon from candlelit rooftops, enjoyed night after night of local Mexican families singing, dancing, playing music, eating homemade ice cream in Le Jardin… homemade churros, free ‘arte en el parque’ in Parque Juarez every Saturday for kids… I could go on and on, but I honestly feel you should not have commented at all on SMA without having properly visited — in other words, actually STAYED OVERNIGHT at least a few days. It sounds like you had a bad day on a bad bus trip and that energy transferred into your experience. That can happen to us all, but I have travelled the world as a documentary filmmaker and am incredibly excited to return in one week to SMA once again… to experience its magic all over again.
San Miguel de Allende is a truly magnificent location, and is becoming a locale of choice for American and Canadian expats. There is a highly developed infrastructure that supports a very large and sophisticated English speaking community here. Culture abounds, and there is extremely active social calendar. There are easily forty or more art galleries in town. The climate is among the best, with warm, dry temperatures year round. Real estate here is among the most beautiful in the world, and your dollar can buy you so much more house than in North America. I lead exciting home buyer trips to San Miguel. Join me on one of these exciting tours to view and buy real estate in San Miguel.
http://www.livinginsanmiguel.com
you obviously were in the wrong town..or just high
Barbara I felt I had to leap to your defence. Jake’s comment is totally ill-informed and out-of-order. I feel like responding in kind (i.e. a personal attack) but I will refrain. You answered him in a very polite, articulate and measured way. I just hope he reads it, and not only that, but I hope he reads the rest of your blog before resorting to any more comments. I have a feeling that English is not his first language, you know. It is excellent, but there are some small things which are just not correct grammar. Maybe he didn’t understand what you wrote?
Islandmomma: You are so kind to leap to my defense. I really thought long and hard about my response to Jake before I hit the “submit” button. I certainly did not want it to become a war of words, but we all have the right to our own opinions. How much better it would have been if he’d said something like – “so sorry you didn’t like my town – why not come back some time and let me show you why I think it is so wonderful.” Appreciate your lovely remarks about having learned so much about Mexico. It is a truly stunning country and I can hardly wait to go back.
And to further my comment, it appears this was your first visit to Mexico? Or at least outside the “tourist” areas? Well then, this would “account” from your poor assessment of same. Please, before starting a blog of this nature, KNOW of what you speak! It is unfortunate that people such as you perpetuate ignorance about travel in areas which they have NO knowledge based on a “tourist” visit!!!!
Jake: I’ve been traveling to Mexico for years, and if you had bothered to read further in my blog you would have realized I traveled through Mexico for four months this time. With a couple of notable exceptions, I loved almost every place I visited. San Miguel was one of those places that just didn’t appeal to me. I was careful to say that I realize it is impossible to get to know a place in a day trip, but after spending the day there I simply had no desire to return. I was much more impressed with other cities I had visited. Apparently you either live in SMA or are a regular visitor. I appreciate that you love the place. I did not. That’s what makes the world go round. The fact that you disagree with me is fine. But personal attacks and inflammatory language are unacceptable and disrespectful. We need to get to a place in this world where we can respect each others opinions (religions, beliefs, races….) if we are ever going to know peace.
Well, sadly, you do not know what the “true” SMA is all about and you’ve done a negative reporting; sadly this happens often to a lot of Cities around the World. I would suggest that you visit again for an extended period of time, spend time with the locals and understand same, and THEN report you “feelings!” All too often it is people such as you that “give” a town a bad “thread” which is truly unfortunate!!!!
There are always going to be places that aren’t as great as you hoped, and it depends on so many things – the company, the weather, the mood, the people you meet.
I’m also becoming a lot less tolerant of anywhere that’s big on the tourist map and likely to be overhyped, although from your photos it looks just as pretty as the other towns – must be something in the atmosphere.
Oh, that’s interesting. I always wanted to go to Capri. My parents used to talk about it a lot, but I realize it must have changed a lot since they were there.
I also have a confession, in case you feel bad about not likeing SMDA…..I didn’t like Paris. I am the only person I know who didn’t like it. I have only been there once. I had a good time too, but no desire to return.
We had the same reaction to San Miguel. I think it may be that we spent 3 weeks falling in love with Guanajuato first and were spoiled by it’s glory. It’s also true that San Miguel (no city for that matter) can live up to all the hype it’s gotten over the years.
Funny how ‘raved about’ places sometimes just have too big of expectations to fill. That’s exactly how I felt about Capri Italy…puke.
Yet – I do wonder how much of it was your detest for tours vs. the city! 🙂 I would be the same way – after doing independent travel, it’s really hard to change gears into tourist mode.
Looks like you won’t be buying a home there anytime soon!
Very interesting, also the comments. As an “ex-pat”, though neither American nor in Mexico I have to say I have learned to avoid places used by others of my ilk. There is a certain arrogance I dislike, and I have found it in people of all nationalities here. Why this should affect a place in another country I don’t know. Maybe it’s just a perception.
It is true that when temperatures are high streetlife dwindles. That’s the same here. I spent a whole couple of hours snapping away in a little village in August of last year and didn’t see a single soul. In Winter the siesta concept irritates me, but in Summer I can see the necessity. First time I visited Florida and realized that temperatures were even higher I was puzzled, until I realized that everywhere is air conditioned of course! There are more air conditioned buildings here now, but it’s by no means the norm. I don’t know about Mexico?
@ pia — Try Casa Aparicio — they have great rooms with a little kitchenette for $350 / month. Perfect if you’re there to study. And Barbara, I encourage you to stay for a few days in San Miguel and give it a shot. It really grows on you. There’s more to see than what you’ll find on a day trip from Guanajuato.
You can’t like everywhere and at least you gave it a try. Seems like a ‘bubble town’ – one that’s a bit insulated from the culture around it due to tourism and perhaps all of the expats there.
i am looking at jewelry workshops located in sma – where else would i get such insight into mexico but to work with some of her finest elements!
@gale and jan – i’m searching now for a good deal on a month long stay or even 2 if i can swing it. are there any inexpensive guest houses other than what are listed on lonely planet and other big name guides? thanks, pia
Hi Pia: Don’t know if Hostel Inn is listed in Lonely Planet, but it is part of the very select Mexico Hostel Group, which means it meets a certain standard. I have stayed at two hostels featured in this group and have been amazed by the quality and the value. Check it out at: http://www.hostelinnmx.com/ Barbara
I wonder sometimes if it level of expectation or simply the mood of the place at the time. I have been disappointed by some well-known and well-praised places yet astounded by off-the-road hardly mentioned places. The beautiful photos tell of an elegant city (the church is stunning as is the colonial architecture) but clearly it hasn’t lived up to that or its high billing in guide books. Interesting article (as always!).
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To use placid and heaviness in describing San Miguel is oxymoronic! It is one of the most vibrant places I have ever been. This town is famous throughout Mexico as having one of the most active and thriving traditional cultures in the country. One would be hard put to spend a week here without witnessing a religious parade, a fiesta, a blessing of the horses, a blessing of the taxis, a display of altars, a parade of “locos”, indigenous dancers, a parade of costumed children, and on and on.
As for the “placid scene” and “heaviness” you describe, you must have been here in an afternoon in May when temperatures reach the mid90’s and people retreat to the coolness of their homes. Return in the evening, the week-end, or most days other than in May, and you will see a lively plaza full of Mexican tourists, local families, and expats, all eating, laughing, dancing and playing.
Your photographs show such beauty that I find it hard to believe you express such ennui. To be bored by the purple jacaranda and scarlet bougainvillea spilling down the hillsides, the ochre, sienna and umber walls, the picturesque churches and historically dressed mounted police, the cobblestoned streets – is to be bored with life!
Yes, why would you like a town (after only a few hours) that has so
many attractions–fabulous restaurants, fantastic architecture,
talented artists. musicians, architects, and writers. Plus neighborhood
celebrations, fiestas, church activities, plays, and dance performances.
I can almost guarantee that you did not visit on a Friday or Saturday
night when the Jardin is alive with Mariachis, balloon sellers, children
playing. families eating tortillas together, gringos enjoying the
activities around them.
There will be no sense of heaviness–you must have been here in the
middle of the day when everyone is taking a siesta — that would be heavy!!
Gale Beery
resident of San Miguel de Allende for 20 years.
Good photos!
Gale and Jan: Thank you for your comments. I appreciate the fact that you love San Miguel de Allende; many people feel the same way. You may be right that I hit it on a bad day or at the wrong time of day. Who knows why it didn’t speak to me, but it just didn’t.
My intuition told me that you were not going to be fond of San Miguel de Allende. I thought it would be due to the large amount of American ex-pats but I was wrong. Go with your gut, Barbara. No since wasting time in a place that doesn’t speak to you. Of course I have never been there but still hope to visit one day to see for myself.
Can it be that our expectations for a place like SMA is too high because we hear so much praise about it? It happened to me with other places that are highly advertised in glitzy ways to attract tourists.
I think your gut was right on this one. We spent a couple days there and found it to be just a less-than-average Mexican town that happened to have a lot of expats. Maybe Guanajuato ruined it for us, too, or maybe we were just expecting too much from SMA, but we also didn’t see what all the fuss was about.