Swimming With Manatees, Crystal River, Florida

Swimming With Manatees in Crystal River, Florida

I’ve seen manatees. I’ve come nose to nose with them through the window of an underwater observatory. I must admit to being just the tiniest bit obsessed with manatees at this point. So of course, the only logical next step was to swim with the manatees.

Although manatees have been known to range as far west as Texas and as far north as Virginia in the warmer summer months, most live in the coastal waters of Florida and nearby states. However in colder months, they retreat to the rivers and springs because they cannot tolerate water temperatures lower than 68 degrees. Florida springs are favorite wintering grounds for manatees because the water temperature is 72 degrees year-round, and since Florida’s Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge supports the largest concentration of these gentle giants, the town of Crystal River was my destination.

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Captain Wayne White aboard his ponton boat in Kings Bay

I arranged for a half-day boat trip with Wayne White, a semi-retired captain and professional photographer who still takes the occasional visitor in search of manatees. Captain White had everything I needed: goggles, snorkel, fins, wetsuit – even spf 50 sunblock. The only thing I had to bring was a swimsuit and $55. After watching a mandatory video about the laws that have been enacted to protect manatees (thou shalt not, at any time, intentionally or negligently, annoy, molest, harass or disturb any manatee), I boarded Captain White’s pontoon boat from a dock behind the Kings Bay Inn.

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Kayakers on the Crystal River, headed for Three Sisters Springs

We motored slowly through the bay and turned left into Crystal River. A short distance upstream we tied up at the entrance to Three Sisters Springs, just a few feet away from a roped-off area where several manatees were resting on the bottom. I zipped up the wetsuit that was a size too large, pulled on my flippers, and slipped into the river. After recovering from the initial shock of the chilly water, I swam toward the concrete pillars at the mouth of the spring that keep boats out and lined up behind two kayaks and a gaggle of adolescent snorkelers.

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Roped off manatee sanctuary at the mouth of Three Sisters Springs

As I waited my turn to enter, two enormous manatees suddenly decided to leave the restricted enclosure and swim into the spring. One of them passed to my right; the second swam directly beneath me and rose up, as if offering me a ride. Gently I stroked his leathery skin, surprised to discover it covered in short, spiky hairs. He looked at me curiously through my snorkel mask and then swam through the pillars and was gone. Come, motioned my captain – there are more inside.

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A friendly manatee offers me a piggyback ride as he leaves the sanctuary, bound for the inner springs

I swam through the underwater rocks guarding the narrow entrance and into a magical blue wonderland, where sunbeams pierced the azure water and rippled on the white sand bottom. Along the shoreline, submerged, gnarled tree roots created abstract landscapes. Schools of flashing silver fish, numbering in the thousands, hovered unconcernedly at the bottom. Strangely, they all faced the same direction and when they turned, it was done in unison, as if communicating telepathically. If not for the tap on my arm, I might still be there, mesmerized by the blueness and the exquisite beauty. Again my captain beckoned – follow me!

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Snorkeling through an otherworldly landscape of gnarled tree roots and giant schools of fish

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After a breath at the surface, manatees sink to the bottom and curl up like boulders

Around a corner, the spring opened out into a large bowl where six manatees rested on the bottom amongst huge moss-covered boulders. Like synchronized swimmers, they alternated between floating to the surface to grab a snoot-full of air and sinking back to the bottom, where they curled up in a humpback resting posture. Although I tried to keep my distance, the flow of the springs pushed me ever closer to the herd. Their sheer size was intimidating; manatee can reach up to 13 feet in length and weigh up to 3,000 pounds. Worried about being caught between them as they surfaced for air, I was swimming toward the boulders for protection when one of the moss-covered stones began rising to the surface, revealing itself to be beast rather than boulder.

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Manatees use their short front flippers to move along the bottom

Amazed, I sought out Captain White for an explanation. “Manatees are serviced by cleaner fish, who eat the moss off their bodies. The ones still covered in moss just haven’t had their turn yet.” He also insisted that I need not worry about being hit by a manatee, explaining that each of the stiff hairs I had felt on their body are connected to a nerve, allowing them to sense the slightest sound and movement in the water. However, this was not a theory I was prepared to test. Sitting on top of a single manatee was one thing; being surrounded by an entire herd was quite another. I kept my distance.

After three hours in the 72 degree water, my teeth began to chatter and I started to shake uncontrollably. Oh, how I wanted to stay! But I knew it was time to leave. Captain White checked my lips and concurred – my upper lip was just beginning to turn purple. I dipped my mask underwater for one long last look just as the manatee nearest me floated up for air. Facing one another, we hovered beneath the surface, snout to nose, barely two feet between us. I swear he looked directly at me, knowingly. Then he tipped his nose up, filled his two giant nostrils with air, and plunked back down on the bottom, boulder-like. I’ll never know for sure, but I’d like to believe it was the same manatee that had offered me the piggyback ride.

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Just as I am about to leave, this manatee hovers in the water and eyeballs me

Swimming with the manatees was an unforgettable experience, full of awe and wonder. I am extremely grateful that there are still places like this in the world, where humans can interact with wildlife in its natural habitat. However, as we raised anchor I couldn’t help but notice the sign posted on the shore at the entrance to the spring, which read: “Help Save Three Sisters Springs.”

I was sad to learn that the current owners of the property surrounding Three Sisters Springs plan to develop the 57 acres into single and multi-family residences. Additionally, they originally applied for a permit to extract 1.2 million gallons of spring water per day. That request was later reduced to 426,000 gallons per day and in February 2003, the Southwest Florida Water Management District approved the withdrawal of up to 100,000 gallons per day, as long as water was pumped from a site away from the spring. Now the owners are considering building a bottling company near the site, although they have also stated they would be willing to sell the property for the right price. Donations are currently being accepted to match state grants in order to purchase the Three Sisters property and protect it in perpetuity. I can only hope they will be successful. It would be criminal to destroy such a natural wonder.

25 Comments on “Swimming With Manatees in Crystal River, Florida

  1. Happen to come across this blog while searching for couponing advice in crystal river, of all things. I am a resident in ” the home of the manatees “, I even see Capt Wayne on the water sometimes. Just wanted to let you know that Three Sisters has been saved! It is now managed by the national wildlife refuge and the manatees are doing fine. We had a record count of manatees in crystal river just about a month ago – 658. Glad you enjoyed your manatee experience.

    • Hi Szq: Thanks so much for sharing that tidbit! I am delighted to learn that Three Sisters has been saved.

    • Do you happen to have Captain White’s contact info.? I went out with him in 2009. I am back in Florida and the number I have isn’t working. I enjoyed my excursion with him and I would like to see the manatees with him again. Thanks.

  2. we went on this excursion with the same Capt. and I don’t know how in the world we could have such a different opinions.  Our pictures were blurry, fog in the camera lense on some, on the video you see tons of pictures of people that was not even us (he didn’t even realize it until our daughter said something), blurry picture of a turtle, river otter, us, did our video backwards by mistake but tried to cover it and said he thought they were more interesting that way, zoomed in and out and around on our video recording so our DVD looks stupid.  Flipped back and forth of a picture of our daughter to a turtle probably 6 times in our DVD – again stupid.  I’m actually ashamed to show our family the video because I’m going to have to explain the first 10 mintues of it is not our family yet we were the only on the boat with him.  Boat stopped working 3 times on the water.  Even have a picture of his truck in our video – why?? Over exposed, wrong subject, blurry pictures, barked orders at us the entire time.  Loved the manatees!  Would pick a different Capt. for this trip.  NEVER go with him.

  3. just thought you would like to know.My wife and I just got back from Florida and did indeed enjoy a awsome day with Capt. Wayne.He is a great great man.Three sister springs is doing well and there is no development there as of yet.
    We will treasure our day with the Capt forever.

    • Hi Barry: Thanks so much for letting me know. Haven’t heard a word from Capt. Wayne since I did the trip myself. Glad to know he’s still operating and that you had such a great time.

  4. Dear Barbara,

    I found your wonderful blog while hunting for interesting photos for one of our projects – we are helping our client transition his 110-acre farm on the Albemarle Sound to a conservation park. During an image search, your image ‘Roped off manatee sanctuary at the mouth of Three Sisters Springs’ spoke to us! May we use this image in our document with a photo credit to you and your blog? (We are working on a web presence for this project as well, which should be ready for viewing in 2 weeks or so.)

    I’ve subsequently enjoyed reading your blog posts – this one in particular struck a chord – I’m from Tallahassee, and during a recent visit back, our family went to Wakulla Springs, which now host manatees! (and there were some intrepid folks swimming with them during our visit!) Similar story…Wakulla Springs has suffered greatly from surrounding development.

    Thank you for your wonderful writing and photos!

    Best,

    Lara

    • Hi Lara:
      Thanks so much for your kind note. So glad you enjoyed reading my blog. It’s
      my passion, so it helps me to know that it’s actually being read.

      Please feel free to use the image you referenced. I would appreciate it if
      you would provide the following attribution:
      Photo by Barbara Weibel at Hole In The Donut Cultural
      Travel
      The link address to use is https://holeinthedonut.com
      Best of luck with your new site.
      Regards,
      Barbara Weibel

  5. i always use Swimming as may daily exercise, it is much better than jogging and running*;-

  6. Hello there, I couldn’t see any means to email you, and so I really hope that you see this comment. I own a website covering ladies wetsuits, and wondered if you might like to exchange links with me. I have submitted my email address if you choose to get in contact. Thanks.

  7. Oh my gosh the Manatee’s are so cute. I’d love to see them when I visit Florida this fall. I’m bummed to hear that their habitat may be endangered.

  8. Thanks for sharing this adventure with your photographs and the wonderful video!
    My son has told me of his experience swimming with the manatees there–a beautiful place –I pray it can be saved from developers!
    Kay

  9. Barbara,

    Thanks for the video, it really restored some calmness in my stressed state of mind. I think I want to go and swim with the manatees. I’ll see if my grandkids would like to go. It would be a fun experience.

    Thanks again for sharing.

    Love, Rose

  10. Swimming with the manatees must have been a peaceful experience. Thanks for sharing this experience. I’m sad to learn their habitat may be harmed. Lovely photos and video.

    Donna Hull’s last blog post..Dreaming of Raiatea

  11. What a superb sounding experience. Such wildlife experiences must be treasured. Let’s hope that the proposed developments are restricted or that the property can be purchased by people willing to preserve this magical looking location. Great story.

  12. Thanks for taking us along on this wonder-ful experience. I’m so, so sorry to hear about the coming development…

    june’s last blog post..In the Glades

  13. How very cool Barbara!!! Thanks for sharing your experience for those of us who may never have the pleasure of swimming with the big boys!!!

    Laura Lee

    Laura Lee’s last blog post..Is the world coming to an end or are things looking up?

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