Prior to World War Two, this street in Vilnius, Lithuania was part of a thriving Jewish community. While there are no exact numbers available, estimates of the pre-WWII Jewish population range between 60,000 and 80,000. After the German Army seized the city in June of 1941, they killed more than 21,000 Jews in a mass … Read more
Where next? It’s the question I hear most often from people I meet on the road. I usually get oohs and aahs and nods of excitement when I reply, but when I began telling people I was headed to Vilnius, their response was almost always, “Where?” My explanation that Vilnius is the capital of Lithuania … Read more
Uzupis is a bohemian neighborhood located within the historic Old Town area of Vilnius, Lithuania. Prior to World War Two, it was predominantly occupied by Jewish residents, most of whom were killed during the Holocaust. Subsequently, the abandoned, deteriorating buildings were occupied by homeless, prostitutes, and criminal elements. Things began to change when Lithuania gained … Read more
Gediminas Tower in Vilnius, Lithuania. The first wooden fortifications, built by Lithuanian Grand Duke Gediminas, were replaced with stone fortifications in the early 15th century. The Upper Castle, as it is now known, became the nucleus around which the capital city developed. Gediminas Tower is the best preserved part of the castle ruins and an … Read more
Katarzyna Kraszewska sat ramrod straight in front of the black lacquered Steinway & Sons grand piano. She contemplated the keyboard for a moment before striking the first commanding chord of a piece written by Frédéric Chopin. For the next hour I was mesmerized, fascinated that so much of the music was familiar to me, despite … Read more
