I saw hundreds of thousands of penguins in Antarctica. I saw thousands of icebergs. I even saw hundreds of penguins on icebergs. But this sole Adelie penguin on an iceberg in Antarctica was the most captivating of all. My jaw dropped. I’d been watching colonies of penguins at Brown Bluff make their way, hop by excruciating hop, up a mountainside to nesting grounds. They were ungainly. They often looked as if they were on the verge of tumbling back down the rocky scree. But maintaining their balance on an outcropping of rock is one thing; hopping to the top of a slick, near vertical iceberg is quite another. One of most intriguing mysteries of my trip to Antarctica will always be how this lone penguin made it to the top of this iceberg.