For the past few years, my fellow travel writers have been waxing poetic about Tbilisi, the capital of the of country of Georgia. This tiny nation, hampered with a name that is often confused with the State of Georgia in the U.S., was suddenly being added to everyone’s wish list. For decades, Georgia was virtually unknown in travel circles. Most didn’t even realize that the Caucasus, as the region is known, is part of Europe. Tucked between the Greater Caucasus Mountains in the north, the Lesser Caucasus Mountains to the south, the Black Sea to the west, and the Caspian Sea to the east, the three Caucasus countries of Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan form the border between Europe and Asia.
Those who had visited Georgia raved about the variety of things to do in Tbilisi. The city’s gorgeous churches, historic wooden houses with ornamental carved facades and balconies, quirky Old Town, glittering glass and steel Peace Bridge, sidewalk cafes, and the region’s famous wines were all touted as top attractions. And if that wasn’t enough, I was repeatedly reminded that Americans get a year visa upon arrival, no questions asked. I was sold. I booked my ticket and set off to explore the region.
On my first day I needed to wind down from my overnight train from Baku, Azerbaijan. I dumped my luggage and went for a leisurely walk in the Marjanishvili neighborhood, with its beautiful 19th century mansions. I struck gold that first day when I wandered into Barbarestan Restaurant, reputed to be the top eatery in Tbilisi. I was treated to a delicious meal based on ancient Georgian cuisine and waddled back across the street to my hotel, filled with excitement about my next few days. Read More
It happens to me a lot. I arrive in a new place with no plans and little knowledge of the country. I do this purposely. I want to see every country I visit with no expectations. I prefer to be surprised. Somehow, the universe always seems to lead me to the places I need to experience, and Tbilisi,
Georgia, was no different.
I arrived in the capital city after an 11-hour night train from Baku, Azerbaijan. After checking into my hotel, I got local currency from an ATM, then focused on my most immediate need – food. There are numerous restaurants in Tbilisi for Georgian cuisine, but I was tired and didn’t want to go far. Fortunately, I spied a few tables on the sidewalk just a block away from my hotel. It was Restaurant Barbarestan, one of the most popular places in town that offers a pure Georgian menu. I stepped down into the sunken restaurant timidly, expecting to find only meat items on the menu. To my surprise, I was assured the selections included several vegetarian and vegan items. Read More
There is so much to see in Buenos Aires that it’s easy to become overwhelmed. Visiting Buenos Aires must be done slowly. It must be savored, neighborhood by neighborhood. I could write an epistle about everything I did in this most European of South American cities but sometimes, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Thus, this story is (mostly) a photo travelogue of the week I spent in this fascinating Argentinian capital.
Begin in the Recoleta Neighborhood
I decided to stay in Recoleta, one of the most important neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. From its central location in the downtown residential area, I was able to walk to many of the neighborhoods I wanted to visit. Recoleta also offers “eye candy” for architecture aficionados. Not only is it home to some of the most stunning examples of Beaux-Arts mansions, it’s also the location of the famous Recoleta Cemetery, where the wealthy of Buenos Aires are entombed. Presidents of Argentina, politicians, generals, statesmen, diplomats, writers and journalists are among the many famous people who have been interred here, but perhaps none more famous than Eva Perón, the first lady of Argentina. The tombs are elaborately decorated with statues in styles ranging from Art Deco to Art Nouveau, Baroque, and Neo-Gothic. Read More
I debated whether or not I wanted to skip seeing Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate, Argentina. After all, I’d just returned from Antarctica, where I’d seen dozens of glaciers. However, I hadn’t see any glaciers calving, and I desperately wanted to see a giant chunk of ice fall off the face of a glacier.
This year, Perito Moreno had advanced across the lake to the opposite shore, blocking off water that would normally feed into the downstream river. Between the immense pressure of the ice pushing from behind, and the higher water pushing from the side, I was almost assured of seeing some calving. I followed wooden walkways that paralleled the glacier, allowing astonishing close-up views of its face. The ice popped and crackled as it shifted and moved. On several occasions, mini explosions rent the air. Each time, I scanned the face of the glacier excitedly, hoping to witness the glacier calving. Each time, I spotted only small pieces of ice plunging into the water below. Nothing to rave about. Read More
After seeing dozens of glaciers and icebergs in Antarctica, I began questioning my decision to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate, Argentina. After all, it’s just another glacier. How different could it be? Eventually I decided to stick to my initial plan. At the very worst, I would have seen yet another glacier. I took a shuttle van from El Chaltén to El Calafate, gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier, and booked a day tour with one of numerous tour companies located in the city center.
The next morning I began the long trek down to observation decks on the shore of Argentino Lake, where the glacier terminates. The dense pine forest suddenly opened up and I stopped in my tracks. Mile after mile of ice flowed into a valley tucked between black mountain peaks. The towering 240-foot high face of the glacier teetered at the edge of the water. Its surface was riven by deep crevices and scores of fractures splayed across its face. Read More
I hardly knew which way to look. One magnificent vista after another unfurled as my transport shuttle sped toward Patagonia, the Argentinian region so famous for its spectacular mountains, vast glaciers, and pure turquoise lakes. As we neared El Chalten, the scenery became even more breathtaking. The pinnacles of Monte Fitz Roy (often anglicized to Mount Fitz Roy) and Cerro Torre thrust up behind the town like a thumb and four gloved fingers. I snapped a few photos with my iPhone, but tinted windows and the heads of other passengers did not make for the best photos. No worries, I thought, I have three days here to hike and take photos. I should have heard the weather gods laughing as that thought flitted through my mind. Read More