Hole in the Donut Cultural Travel

The crowd assembled in Liberation Square gripped their small British flags, eagerly awaiting the moment when re-enactors would come pouring into the plaza, dressed in vintage WWII uniforms. As the last strains of “Beautiful Jersey” faded away, cadets from the Royal Jersey Militia Army mounted a rear wall and came rushing through the onlookers, handing out hard candy and apples. Joyful cheers and frenzied flag-waving egged the soldiers on to the second floor balcony of the Pomme d’Or Hotel, where they raised the Union Jack, just as they’d done 68 years earlier during the liberation of Jersey from German occupation.

Members of the Royal Jersey Militia Army, dressed in vintage WWII uniforms, await the signal to re-enact the liberation of the Isle of Jersey at the end of WWII

Members of the Royal Jersey Militia Army, dressed in vintage WWII uniforms, await the signal to re-enact the liberation of the Isle of Jersey at the end of WWII

Perhaps because of their location just a handful of miles off the coast of France, the Channel Islands, which include Jersey, Guernsey, Sark and eleven other small islands, were the only bits of British soil ever captured by the Germans during World War II. Early in the morning on July 1, 1940, a German ultimatum was dropped over the Isle of Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands. Residents were commanded to show their surrender by flying white flags over all the buildings. They complied by hanging out sheets and pillowcases and painting a white cross in the middle of Royal Square. Bailiff Coutanche appealed to islanders to stay calm and follow German orders, then drove to the airport to meet the invaders, who promptly commandeered the Pomme d’Or Hotel as its headquarters and raised the detested swastika from its second floor balcony. Read More

Green and pink-haired teens clustered around the tattoo shops and clothing stores, pawing at leather dominatrix outfits and vintage hi-top sneakers imprinted with the Union Jack. I had come to Camden Markets to experience London’s alternative fashion scene but within minutes the seething crowds had frazzled my nerves. Abandoning my plan to be a pretend fashionista for a day, I headed instead for the locks on Regent’s Canal, the other site for which Camden is famous.

Minutes later I was standing on a quaint stone bridge, looking down on dozens of long, skinny boats painted in riotous colors and designs, lined up and waiting for their turn to pass through a series of three locks. Descending to canal level, I watched boats motor into the narrow locks two-by-two, with barely half a foot of clearance between them. After tying up securely, the captains clambered onto the shore, manually closed the rudimentary timber gates, and inserted metal cranks into a mechanism that allowed water to either flow in or be pumped out. Once the water level equalized, the gates were again opened and the process was reversed for boats going in the opposite direction. Fascinated, I sought out one of the captains as he waited for water in the lock to empty, and asked about his odd-looking vessel.

Narrowboat motors into lagoon after negotiating narrow locks at Camden Town London

Narrowboat motors into lagoon after negotiating narrow locks at Camden Town

They’re called narrowboats,” he explained. “They were originally built to haul goods up and down the canals of England, but nowadays they’re mostly used for pleasure cruises, though we live aboard ours year round.”

“There’s so many!” I exclaimed, noting the long line waiting to pass through the locks.

“It’s a bit of a traffic jam this weekend,” he laughed. “There was a festival this weekend in Little Venice and everyone is heading home.

Where’s home for you?

Ah, well, that’s an interesting question,” he said. It was a familiar response; as a nomad I use the exact same words whenever anyone asks me where I am from. “We just go from mooring to mooring most of the year. Sometimes we tie off in one place for the winter, when stoppages (repairs) make travel impossible.” Read More

Dull gray skies spit rain and the wind tore through my hair, but no amount of bad weather could wipe the grin off my face as I steered the Tall Ship Lady Avenel down the River Thames. As luck would have it, my visit to London had coincided with a press event held by the Royal Borough of Greenwich to announce that more than 50 tall ships would be returning to Greenwich in September 2014 for the Tall Ships Regatta. I held the giant red wheel steady as we sailed through the Thames Barrier, taking in the magnificent views of the O2, the Old Royal Naval College, the Cutty Sark and Canary Wharf, wondering how I got so lucky.


Sailing the Lady Avenel Tall Ship down the River Thames

Earlier that afternoon, Greenwich city officials and business representatives had gathered to launch the Royal Greenwich Festivals 2013, which showcases the very best in dance, music, art and theater throughout the summer. Following a mini-performance by contemporary dancers and a trampoline artist who flew so high he appeared to be climbing the side of the Old Royal Naval College, they boarded the stately Lady Avenel, where they signed the official contract to bring the Tall Ships Regatta back in 2014, the first major Tall Ships event since London hosted the Tall Ships Race in 1989. Read More

During my first trip to the United Kingdom two years ago my friend and travel writing compatriot, Mike Sowden, took me on an architectural walking tour of York’s old city walls. As we neared the megalithic York Minster Cathedral, he asked what cities I had visited in England.

“Only Newcastle and here,” I said.

“You haven’t been to London yet?” he asked, astonished. “Good for you,” he added after a few moments of reflection. “So many tourists only visit London and think they’ve seen England.”

St. Mary’s Axe, one of London's modern skyscrapers, is affectionately known by its nickname “the Gherkin”

St. Mary’s Axe, one of London’s modern skyscrapers, is affectionately known by its nickname “the Gherkin”

This time, I decided it was finally time to visit London and see for myself what the hype was all about. Fortunately, after a miserably long and cold winter, the sun came out on the day I arrived and stuck around for the better part of a week. Hoping to see the most important sights, I walked for hours each day. Crossing over to the north shore of the Thames I meandered down to the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, then back into the financial district for a close-up view of unexpectedly avant-garde skyscrapers that dominate the skyline. St. Mary’s Axe, affectionately known by its nickname “the Gherkin” soars skyward like a giant ‘conehead.’ Just down the street, the Lloyd’s building looks for all the world like a stack of spiral-bound notebooks plunked down on a library shelf. Nearby, tourists and locals alike rubberneck at the city’s newest skyscraper, currently under construction, which features a startlingly concave, gravity-defying design. Read More

In my younger years, I didn’t give much thought to sustainable living. Oh, I did all the small things people tend to do: I recycled my plastics, glass, cans, and papers; gave away my slightly used clothes to Goodwill; and never left the water running when I brushed my teeth. But over the past twenty or so years, I’ve become increasingly eco-conscious and the issue of sustainability has become foremost in my thought process when making life decisions. It was one of the reasons I decided to give up my home and travel perpetually; I simply could not justify keeping a mostly empty apartment. It worked out well, as a friend of mine was going through a nasty divorce and had nowhere to live and not a stick of furniture. I not only helped her to rent my apartment, I gave her all my furniture.

Attending the Red Market while living with the Maasai in Monduli, Tanzania

Attending the Red Market while living with the Maasai in Monduli, Tanzania

Over the past six and a half years my travels have strengthened my eco-consciousness. Visiting and living with locals in undeveloped countries has opened my eyes to the extent of poverty in the world and, even though I no longer have much in the way of material possessions, made me aware of how much more I have than most people. I understand how little we truly need to be happy. I know now that the most important things in life are those we love and who love us. At the same time I shudder at the wastefulness and greed I witness, both in developing countries and back home in the U.S. And I want to help. My blog has been an integral part of this process, as I encourage travelers to use the services of locals in the countries they visit and choose accommodations and food that will put money into the local coffers. I believe that to truly know a country and its people, you must immerse in their culture, something I do on a regular basis through local home stays. But somehow, it just hasn’t been enough. I wanted to do more.

EcoAdventure Media

Then one day I was offered the opportunity to collaborate with a group of people who, like me, want to make the world a better place. The group, EcoAdventure Media, is a team of seasoned media and travel industry professionals that includes travel bloggers, print journalists, TV reporters, editors, marketing/PR professionals, educators, a travel agent, a zoologist, and a sustainability consultant. Many of them you may know, as they are some of the most successful travel bloggers in the blogosphere:

To put it mildly, I jumped at the chance to be involved with these folks.

As a group, we aspire to connect sustainable travelers with trustworthy companies/destinations that put an emphasis on traveling responsibly. We want to encourage the growth of the ecotourism industry by inspiring more travelers to make conscious choices that benefit conservation efforts and local indigenous cultures. Basically, we want to help bring responsible ecotourism into the mainstream. EcoAdventure Media will begin offering to clients a full range of services that include press trips and sponsorships, social media marketing/training, press releases, press kit development, marketing/PR services, website design, and content creation, among other services.

Many of my readers know that I detested my 35+years in corporate life, during which time I was marketing manager for a number of corporate giants. Finally, I will be able to put these talents to work in a way that makes me feel I am making a positive contribution to this world. I believe that everything happens for a reason. Had it not been for my years in marketing, I couldn’t be a part of this marvelous new venture, and I look forward with great delight to being a part of it.

Suggest that they are visionaries and Dr. Charles and Mary Portera, founders of the Bluff View Art District in Chattanooga, Tennessee, will just laugh and shake their heads.

“There was no vision involved,” insists Dr. Portera. “It just happened.”

Dr. Charles and Mary Portera, founders of Chattanooga's Bluff View Art District

Dr. Charles and Mary Portera, founders of Chattanooga’s Bluff View Art District

During my recent visit to Chattanooga I was fortunate to share dinner with the Portera’s at the Back Inn Cafe, where we munched on scrumptious appetizers and watched the sun set over the Tennessee River as the couple explained how the district came to be. In 1991, in support of the revitalization of the Riverfront in downtown Chattanooga, they purchased the Newell Home, an historic property on a high rocky promontory overlooking the river and downtown Chattanooga. Located just steps from Chattanooga’s famous Hunter Museum of American Art, it was an ideal location for an art gallery. They restored the charming French stucco property, named it simply the River Gallery, and began sourcing unique works by local artists to fill its myriad rooms and alcoves. Read More