Hole in the Donut Cultural Travel
Original Mozartkugel at Furst Cafe in Salzburg, Austria

Click on title to view photo in large format. Salzburg, Austria, is best known for its historic old town, castles, and age-old churches. But for my money, the real reason to visit this historic city is to taste one of the world’s most delicious candies, the original Mozartkugel at Furst Cafe. This small, round ball was developed in 1890 by Paul Fürst, who came from a long line of confectioners. After lengthy testing he came up with the perfect recipe: a center of pistachio marzipan, wrapped in praline nougat, dipped in dark chocolate.

The Mozartkugel was such a hit that competitors began copying it. Furst was soon battling in court with the likes of Mirabell, Reber, and Nestlé to protect the name. Today there are many imitations, but Furst Cafe is the only manufacturer who has the right to Read More

Lipizzaner Horses in Vienna, Austria at the Spanish Riding School

Click on title to view photo in large format. These handsome Lipizzaner Horses in Vienna are descendants of the breed that was initially developed in the 16th century with the support of the Royal Hapsburg family. Lipizzaners were bred for a long life and a muscular build. As a result, they excel in performing jumps and other “in-the-air” feats practiced in classical dressage. Lipizzaner horses can have coats in an array of colors, however, the Royal family bred them to be predominantly grey in color. Because of this, they are often described as white horses, but this is a misnomer. White horses are born with pale skin and a white hair coat. Lipizzaners are born with black skin and a darker coat – usually bay or black. Their coats lighten with age, gradually turning light gray. Read More

My first visit to Vienna was indecently short. During my Grand European Tour with Viking River Cruises last year, I spent a day getting to know the city. Following a walking tour of the most important sites, I met up with the ship’s chef for a gastronomic discovery of the Naschmarkt, the city’s 16th-century fresh market. At the Sacher Hotel, I gobbled down a slice of the hotel’s famous Sacher Torte before rushing off to a Mozart and Strauss concert performed by a Viennese orchestra. It left me yearning for more, and I vowed to return to Vienna as soon as possible.

The Naschmarkt has more than 100 kiosks, vendors, and shops that sell gourmet foods

The Naschmarkt has more than 100 kiosks, vendors, and shops that sell gourmet foods

I kept that promise recently, as Vienna was a convenient stop on my way to the Baltic States. My first stop was back at the Naschmarkt, where I sampled my way through more than 100 food stalls. With my hunger sated, I strolled past the Imperial Apartments, museums, Royal Stables, Opera House, and scores of ornate palaces. My reaction, surprisingly, was disappointment. Spending only one day in Vienna had seemed positively sinful, but Viking had done such a good job that I’d already seen most of the major sites. At the end of my first day, I was…bored. Read More

As the first ever pedestrian zone in Austria's capital city, Graben Street in Vienna, Austria is often home to art installations like these geometric panels

Click on title to view photo in large format. The view down Graben Street in Vienna, Austria. This avenue dates back to an old Roman settlement, when it was a trench running in front of the medieval city walls. During the 12th century, the trench was filled in and became one of the city’s first residential streets. Over the centuries Graben Street has been the main market street as well as the location for most major craftsmen. By the late 18th century, however, Read More

Vienna State Opera, perhaps the most iconic building in the Austrian capital

Click on title to view photo in large format. The Vienna State Opera is perhaps the most iconic building in the Austrian capital. The Neo-Renaissance Opera House was the first major structure on Vienna’s Ringstrasse. Construction began in 1861 and was completed in 1869. Interestingly, the building was not initially popular with Viennese. Sentiment changed, however, when it suffered substantial damage from Allied bombing during World War II. Read More

Feldkirch, Austria. I’d never heard of it and had no plans to visit. I ended up in this sub-Alpine village for one reason only; it was the easiest and least expensive way to visit Liechtenstein. Not knowing how long that would take I booked two nights, but by the end of the first day, I’d seen more than half of Liechtenstein. As I rolled into bed that night back in Feldkirch, I wondered what I would do with a full extra day.

Painting inside the Rathaus (Town Hall) in Feldkirch, Austria, shows the town around 1650

Painting inside the Rathaus (Town Hall) in Feldkirch, Austria, shows the town around 1650

The next morning I woke to brilliant sunshine. The surrounding hills sparkled with clean green pines and cottony clouds scooted through crisp blue skies. I grabbed my camera and headed out to explore. At the pretty Town Hall I learned that Feldkirch, Austria was established by Count Hugo I of Montfort around 1200. Each of the 50 farms at the base of the mighty Schattenburg Mountain was required to deliver one cartload of manure each year to ensure the Montfort vineyards thrived. Thus the Count’s list of suppliers – the Mistrodel – (literally the “manure list”), became the town’s first census of residents. It was just the first of many intriguing stories I would hear about Feldkirch. Read More