In early May I wrote about plans to scuttle the USS Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg, a WWII troop carrier and Cold War era spy ship, seven miles off the coast of Key West in order to create the world’s second largest artificial reef for divers. The sinking, which occurred on May 27, 2009, was done by Associated Marine Salvage and was documented by several videographers. One of the best videos, produced by Fla-Keys.com, can be viewed by clicking on the photo below:

USS Vandenberg Video

SinkTheVandenberg.com also has some fascinating, short clips, including videos from cameras mounted on the ship during the sinking. I was surprised by these views. I expected a big bang from the multiple, simultaneous detonations but it was more like a series of soft pops followed by puffs of smoke. And then, down she went – fast! Thirteen years of work to bring her to Key West ended in less than two minutes.

The Vandenberg is already attracting interest from divers all over the world and is sure to be a boon to tourism. I look forward to watching the ship morph into a living reef, and on some not-too-distant day, comparing my photo of the docked ship to one of its coral-encrusted sunken hull.

With all the time I spend in the Florida Keys, I’ve become somewhat of a travel expert on these tiny islands, so when Addison Schonland of IAGblogPodcasts asked if I would be willing to share some of the least touristy but most worthwhile attractions and beaches in the Keys with his blog audience, I jumped at the chance.

As any reader who has spent time on Hole In The Donut knows, for years I had a love-hate relationship with Key West. I loved the island, but after a couple of days, I hated the drunken tourists, the crowds, and the round-the-clock noisy revelry of DuVal Street. It was only recently that I finally started to discover the Keys – almost as if I had to pay my dues in order to be let into the secret places that no one tells you about. And that’s what Addison wanted me to reveal to his listeners. The podcast is 22 minutes long, but worth a listen:

IAGblogPodcast: Barbara Weibel on the Florida Keys

The earliest cigar factory in Key West dates back to 1831, but the industry really took off during Cuba’s Ten Year War (1868 – 1878), when Cubans fled to the United States in droves. Many Cubans resettled in Key West, bringing the art of cigar making with them. By 1876 the city’s 29 cigar factories were producing a staggering 62 million cigars annually! During the next few years, Key West boomed, and the population grew to more than 18,000 people by 1890, making it the largest and wealthiest city in Florida.

Historical display of cigar making memorabilia in East Martello Museum and Fort

Among those who were most influential in the cigar making business was Eduardo Gato, the first Cuban to own a major Key West factory. In addition to building a large factory, Gato constructed a series of cottages adjacent to the factory to provide housing for his workers, which quickly became known as “Gatoville.” Although “Gatoville” no longer exists Read the rest of this entry »

Historical photo of Stanley Papio, welder and artist

Like many artists, Stanley Papio was never fully appreciated until after his death. A former boxer, horse groom, and Army veteran, Papio made his way to Key Largo in the 1940′s and settled on a cheap piece of land right next to the highway, where he built a salvage and welding business. In those early years no one cared that he filled his front yard with junk. The Keys had not yet been discovered and Papio’s nearest neighbor lived 15 miles away. But when developers arrived the surrounding property sprouted with fancy homes and residents began to complain about the old washing machines, cars, toilet bowls, and scrap metal heaped in piles around his plot. All that “junk” at the entrance to Key Largo was an eyesore. No one cared that Papio had been there first.

The town hounded him to remove the junk and bring his property up to code. He refused to comply, instead creating sculptures welded together from his treasured junk and displaying them in his front yard. Papio considered his Read the rest of this entry »

I have always thought it strange that there are three giant forts located on tiny Key West. What was it about this two mile by four mile island that caused the government to build so many massive fortifications? On this trip, I was determined to find out.

Fort Zachary Taylor

A row of monster canons at Fort Zachary Taylor

Read the rest of this entry »

Robert The Doll is on display at the East Martello Museum and Fort in Key West

I snapped a photo of Robert The Doll before reading that he puts curses on anyone who takes his photograph. Uh oh. Surely it’s just a myth, I thought. Curious, I began reading about the doll’s history. In 1903, Robert was given to four-year old Gene Otto, who lived in Key West. As Gene grew up he blamed everything bad that happened on the doll. By the time Gene was married, Robert had taken the blame for a lifetime of lies, misdeeds, and mischief.

Some say Robert’s face had begun to change by the time Gene died in 1974, that his eyes grew more expressive. People insisted that the doll moved around and could be heard giggling behind their backs. Many who came in contact with Robert experienced bad luck, as if the doll was getting even for all the years he had been made a scapegoat. The curse of Robert The Doll grew into such a well-known legend in Key West that Read the rest of this entry »

Sippin' Key West Internet Cafe is tucked away on a side street in Old Town

For years I have had a love/hate relationship with Key West. Although its an entertaining place to visit, its “party town” image makes it seem plastic and phony. The island is rich in history, local lore, and is home to a vibrant, multi-ethnic culture, however I have never been able to break through the tourist facade to discover the real Key West. Until now.

A week ago Sunday, on my way home from having dinner in Old Town, I heard music coming from a side street. This is not unusual. From the street musicians on Duval to the raunchy honky-tonk of the Country and Western Bars, to the lady boys belting out their Streisand impersonations, music is ever present in Key West.  What caught my attention was the type of music – somewhere nearby, a woman was singing and playing an acoustic guitar. Even from a distance I could tell she was spectacular. Read the rest of this entry »

A little bit of history pulled into Key West last week. The 523-foot long USS Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg arrived from its previous berth in Norfolk, VA, where it had been languishing since being decommissioned in 1986, one of 25 retired ships often referred to as the “Ghost Fleet.” Now, rather than rusting away or being cut up for scrap, the WWII troop carrier will serve one final mission: it will be scuttled six miles offshore, where it will become the world’s second-largest artificial reef.

The USS Vandenberg will be scuttled six miles offshore from Key West in 140 feet of water, where it will become the second largest artificial reef in the world

Key West boat captain Joe Weatherby conceived the idea for the project 13 years ago and began searching for a mothballed ship that would be suitable, eventually selecting the Vandenberg because of its interesting structure, military history, and massive size. For years he navigated myriad state and federal regulations in his attempt to bring the ship to Key West while the price tag grew into the millions. Prospects looked bleak until Read the rest of this entry »

Giant buoy marks the suthernmost spot in the U.S.

Standing at the end of Whitehead Street in Key West, I lean against the giant buoy that marks the southernmost spot in the United States and gaze across a blue-green Atlantic. I squint in the late afternoon sunshine, searching the pale pink haze at the horizon for any sign of land. Cuba is just 90 miles away. I wonder; is it visible on a clear day? Probably not, but I imagine I can see it anyway. What is it like, that exotic isle?

I turn around and pose for an accommodating tourist who offers to take my photo, willing Cuba’s distant shoreline to show up in the photo. But of course, it doesn’t. Just 90 short miles. So close, yet so far away. Soon, I hope. Very, very soon I will be able to bite into that forbidden fruit.