Escapism | Hole In The Donut Cultural Travel

La Paz, Mexico is a Water Wonderland

Published March 20, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

When my ferry arrived in La Paz, Mexico a couple of weeks ago, I had only an hour or so to check out the town before boarding the bus that would take me across Baja California to Todos Santos. I walked along the Malecon and snapped a few photos; it seemed like a nice enough little town but I wasn’t turning cartwheels over it. Fortunately, during my stay at Rancho Pescadero I met Danny the bartender, born and raised in La Paz, who convinced me to spend a few days there. Danny was so right.

Although La Paz enjoys modest tourism, it is not overrun with tourists and expats. The downtown streets are filled with locals doing their daily shopping, attending church, chatting in the town square. People are extremely friendly and everyone seems to be smiling; I even found a fantastic, extremely affordable Mexican restaurant in La Paz. But the real beauty of La Paz starts where the land meets the sea.

Exquisite Corralito Beach on Espiritu Santu Island

Water so pure it looks otherworldly

Gorgeous Balandra Bay is a picture perfect swath of powdery white sand beach backed by purple and ochre cliffs, with water so excruciatingly turquoise it is hard to believe the color is real. Beyond Balandra is Espiritu Santo Island, a nature preserve with dozens of pristine deserted beaches, coral reefs teeming with tropical fish, and sea lions that are so friendly they will swim right up to your snorkel mask. The Sea of Cortez off the coast of La Paz is also one of the few places in the world where snorkelers and divers can swim beside enormous but gentle whale sharks as they scoop up plankton and krill with their giant mouths.

Giant whale shark comes up right beside the boat

I visited this water wonderland with Carey Dive Center, an excellent tour/dive operation that has designed a day trip that combines all of these activities and more. Words are simply not sufficient to describe the stunning scenery and wildlife in and around Balandra Bay and Espiritu Santo Island, so I put together the following brief video.

I’ve much enjoyed my time in Baja California, but it’s time to head back across the Sea of Cortes to Barrancas del Cobre – Mexico’s Copper Canyon – a remote area in the state of Chihuahua that encompasses the deepest canyon in North America. Copper Canyon is home to the reclusive Tarahumara Indians chronicled in the book, “Born to Run,” and I hope to spend time with Tarahumara during my visit. Tomorrow evening I board the ferry back across the Sea of Cortez, this time to Topolobampo, and bus through Los Mochis to El Fuerte, where I’ll spend a few days before boarding the famous El Chepe train through the canyon.

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Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged adventure, baja california, Balandra Bay, blogsherpa, Corralito Beach, diving, escapism, Espiritu Santo Island, La Paz, Mexico, sea lions, Sea of Cortez, snorkeling, Travel, whale sharks |

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Going With the Flow, On to La Paz, Mexico

Published March 13, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

So much for my schedule. I knew it was going to be a fluid trip, I just didn’t know how fluid. First I killed time in Cabo San Lucas waiting for a casita to become available at the new Rancho Pescadero Resort near Todos Santos, Mexico in order to spend a few more days in paradise. As luck would have it, I threw my hip and knee out in a Yoga session and was barely able to go up and down stairs. My next planned destination, Copper Canyon, would have to wait. There was no way I was going to do the extensive hiking I had planned in the canyon.

Additionally, the weather has turned unseasonably cold here in Baja, dropping into the 50′s at night. I brought long sleeve shirts, a sweater, hiking boots, heavy socks, and even mittens, but I don’t have a coat with me and if it’s cold in Baja it’s going to be freezing at Copper Canyon, up in the mountains on the Mexican mainland.

No worries, though. I have no concrete reservations so I just revised my schedule. The owners of Rancho Pescadero hooked me up with the local chiropractor, a genius named Mark who worked on me twice and relieved a lot of the pain. Since I need to let the knee and hip rest a few days before trying strenuous activity, I hopped a bus back to La Paz and checked into the Lorimar Hotel. It’s very basic and not the cleanest, but for $22 a night with a comfortable bed and free wifi, I’m not complaining. I found a broom last night and once I swept the floor it was perfectly acceptable.

The Lorimar is just off the Malecon and only a few blocks from el Centro, the central town square, so I spent the afternoon and evening wandering around town. Although there are many American and Canadian expats here, La Paz has retained its charm and culture. At its core, the Cathedral of Our Lady of La Paz watches over Velasco Garden, where men have their shoes shined and mothers treat their children to helados – frozen deserts sold by push-cart vendors. The cathedral, which dates back to 1861, was built with a peaked roof called “dos aguas” – two waters – and no towers. In 1910 the left tower was built and ten years later, the right tower was added. If you look closely you can spot the differences inn construction. The varying stone color and size, the mortar work, and the two different bells arrangements all lend a peculiar grace to the church.

Cathedral of Our Lady of La Paz

Madonna and child receive a hand washing in preparation for Semana Santa (Easter Week) celebration nside the Cathedral of Our Lady of La Paz

The cathedral’s interior is deceptively simple at first glance, until you look up and realize that the ceiling is crafted from wood strips that have been painstakingly bowed and fitted together to create an elaborate barreled design. I rested on one of the simple wooden pews and watch the ebb and flow of the church, so much a part of Mexican life. An elderly woman with toddler in hand entered from a door near the front and paused at the altar, showing the youngster how to cross herself and bow. Another woman sat in the front pew and began praying aloud. With its series of stunning stained glass windows, wood-carved stations of Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged baja california, blogsherpa, cathedral, culture, el centro, escapism, Hotel Lorimar, independent, La Paz, long term, malecon, Mexico, Travel, unplanned |

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For a Good Time Call 555-Cabo San Lucas

Published March 11, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

It’s a high school girl’s worst nightmare, discovering that her phone number has been scrawled on the boy’s room wall. Those five words: “for a good time call….” speak shameful volumes about a girl who has given in to temptation, in search of elusive popularity, love, excitement.

Not so long ago, virginal Cabo San Lucas was a sleepy village of sand streets and gaily painted wooden fishing launches, where excitement meant the sight of migrating whales or a fiery sunrise bursting through the rocky arch at Land’s End. Although sportsmen discovered Cabo’s legendary marlin fishing in the 1950′s and 60′s, it was the construction of a trans-peninsular highway in 1973 and completion of Los Cabos International Airport in the ’80′s that finally launched Cabo as a tourist mecca. During the ensuing development, lady Cabo not only spread her skirts across the broad coastal plain, she lifted them.

Boats jockey for position around Land's End

Medano Beach, just another string of upscale Americanized resorts

Cabo San Lucas was not one the places I planned to see on this trip but as with all long-term travel, my plans were fluid. For two nights I had been a hosted guest of the spectacular new Rancho Pescadero Resort, located about 45 miles north of Cabo, and the owner invited me to stay another two days. Since Rancho Pescadero is one of the most stunning properties I have ever visited, I Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged baja california, beaches, blogsherpa, Cabo San Lucas, culture, escapism, loud music, Mexico, nightmare, timeshares, tourist, Travel, vendors |

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Ferrying Across the Sea of Cortez Between Mazatlan and La Paz in Baja California

Published March 9, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

One of the things I promised myself when I embarked upon this trek around Mexico, Central and South America was NO planes, unless absolutely necessary. Back in the days when it didn’t take three hours to get checked in and through security, back when the airlines actually cared about their passengers, flying was a lot more pleasant and was a real time saver. But even back then, flying was a buzz kill for anyone hoping to immerse in the local culture. Since cultural travel is all-important to me, I decided to take the pace of my travel down a notch by using autos, trucks, boats and trains whenever possible.

My Baja Ferry to La Paz awaits

My first challenge came early in the trip. I needed to get from Mazatlan, on the west coast of Mexico’s mainland,across the Sea of Cortez to La Paz, a mid-size city halfway down the long, skinny peninsula that is the Mexican State of Baja California Sur. I quickly discovered that Baja Ferries sails between the cities and found their schedule and rates online, but even after scrutinizing their website there were many many questions left unanswered. In an attempt to help others who may wish to use the ferry, I have described more thoroughly the process below.

With the possible exception of holidays like Semana Santa, it is not necessary to buy a ticket well in advance – a day or two ahead of time will be just fine. The ticket office at the ferry terminal, located just south of the lighthouse at the inlet to Mazatlan harbor, is open seven days a week from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Both credit and debit cards are accepted and you will need either your original passport or a copy to buy tickets. The ship sails from Mazatlan on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 5 p.m., and from La Paz to Mazatlan on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday (5 p.m. on Sunday, 8 p.m. on Tuesday and Thursday). The crossing takes about 12 hours.

Fresh shrimp in picante red saue with roasted vegetables, roasted cactus, and hand-made cheese at the Point Restaurant

Delicious guava tart at the Point Restaurant while waiting to board

On the departure day, you may drop off your checked baggage as early as 11 a..m. and spend a few hours doing touristy things until 3 p.m., when you are expected to be in the second floor waiting room in preparation for boarding. Your luggage is tagged by an attendant, who gives you a claim check and loads it on a long luggage carrier that is towed into the bowels of the ship just before departure. (Hold onto your claim check, as it is carefully examined upon arrival.) It is worth noting that you are not allowed access to your checked luggage during the crossing, although hand luggage may be carried on, so it is wise to pack a toothbrush and toothpaste in your carry-on. If you’re hungry, I wholeheartedly suggest walking next door to the Point Restaurant, which serves excellent food and offers a splendid view of the harbor. This turned out to be the absolute best meal I had in Mazatlan, and I was even more pleased I’d eaten a big meal on shore when I later sampled the mediocre (and fairly expensive) food on board the ship.

Loading tractor trailers into the bowels of the ship

Baja Ferries upper deck

Boarding begins promptly at 3 p.m., when a ship employee arrives to escort passengers across the busy tarmac, where dozens of semi-tractor trailers are being loaded into the bowels of the ship. As soon as there is a break in the truck traffic, passengers are led into the lower deck and up four flights of stairs to check in. An elevator is available for those who cannot negotiate stairs. On the day I departed, the majority of passengers had purchased “boarding rights” passage for $1,200 pesos (slightly less than $100 U.S.). This fare included an assigned seat in one of the ship’s large “salas” - rooms outfitted with wide upholstered chairs that Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged baja california, Baja Ferries, blogsherpa, central pacific coast, culture, escapism, ferry, La Paz, Mazatlan, Mexico, Pichilingue, sailing, Sea of Cortez, slow travel, Travel |

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Stroll Along the Malecon for a Taste of Mazatlan

Published March 4, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Hundreds of years ago, Mazatlan was founded as a fishing village on the north bank of a natural inlet from the Sea of Cortez. Over time, Mazatlan grew northward from the inlet as the protected deep-water lagoon beyond the inlet attracted a commercial fishing fleet that now numbers in excess of 800 boats and provides much of the fresh shrimp and tuna consumed in Mexico each day. Although the port, one of the largest on the Pacific coast of Mexico, is today also utilized by cargo and cruise ships, the strength of its fishing industry allowed Mazatlan to escape the descent into a tourist based culture that has befallen so many of Mexico’s other coastal cities.

After investigating El Centro – the old town of Mazatlan – the second best way to experience the everyday life of Mazatlencos is to stroll along the Malecon, a 6.7 kilometer long (about four miles) beach front promenade. I began my walking tour at Pescadero Beach (Fisherman’s Beach), where scores of gaily painted wooden fishing boats rested on the beach. Every morning, fishermen gather on the beach just before dawn. They form crews of six or eight and help one another drag their simple boats across the sand and into the sea. By midday the boats are back with their fresh catch and the process is repeated in reverse; returning boats are dragged back onto land, the larger of them using a simple metal axle with two wheels, which is pushed into the water and gradually shoved under the boat, allowing the crew to leverage the weight of the vessel and shove it back into its allotted slot.

Can’t view the above YouTube video of fishermen in Mazatlan, Mexico, bringing in the boats by hand? Click here.

I strolled along Pescadero Beach at midday, chatting up gnarled old fishermen with dark tans and faces deeply creased from too many years in the sun. What type of fish had they caught? “Dorado,” was the most common answer, although some showed me yellow-tail tuna and what appeared to be Red Snapper. The men nodded and smiled, demonstrating their talents at repairing nets and untangling fishing line. I shot a video of the final boat being dragged from the sea and asked one of the younger crew members what they had caught. “Ah, mucho Dorado,” he claimed. Lots of Dorado. The others laughed and shook their heads. “Pero manana,” he added. But tomorrow.

Can’t view the above slideshow of the fishermen on the Malecon in Mazatlan, Mexico? Click here.

Further south along the Malecon is a park, officially named Parque Glorieta Rodolfo Sanchez Taboada, but which the locals call “El Clavadista,” named for the cliff divers that perform here. Jumping from a high rocky promontory into a narrow channel of thrashing Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged blogsherpa, central pacific coast, clavadistas, cliff divers, culture, el centro, el faro, escapism, fishermen, lighthouse, malecon, Mazatlan, Mexico, pescaderos, promenade, Travel |

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El Centro – Heart and Soul of Mazatlan

Published March 3, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Catedral Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepcion

To really discover Mazatlan one must leave the touristy “Golden Zone” along the town’s northern shores and venture into its historic old town. At its core is the lovely Moorish and Gothic style Cathedral Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepcion, which presides over Plaza Republica and calls the faithful to worship with a puzzling array of bell ringing at all hours of the day and night.

Vendors are the first to fill the surrounding arterial streets each morning as they hawk an endless array of fresh seafood, homemade pastries, religious trinkets and the like. They are quickly followed by shopkeepers who roll up metal doors and pull merchandise onto the sidewalks. Shoppers, workers, churchgoers, and occasional tourists stream through the narrow, hilly cobblestone streets, flowing as one back to the heart.

The Cathedral may be Mazatlan’s heart, but the city’s soul is bared at night. Historic buildings are bathed in a soft yellow glow from strategically placed spotlights, trees twinkle in multi-colored ice lights, and vivid neon signs blink in restaurant and bar windows. Passionate conversation and laughter spill into the street from open restaurant doorways and patios hidden from view by high wooden walls. Soon after dark, Mazatlecos begin gathering at Plazuela Machado. By day a pretty little park with a gazebo and cobblestone pathways, at night the Plaza is magically transformed into a giant open-air cafe with live music, dancing, and a craft fair. Anchoring the Plazuela Machado is the historic Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged blogsherpa, central pacific coast, culture, el centro, escapism, Mazatlan, Mexico, pueblo viejo, Travel |

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