My Love-Hate Relationship with Kathmandu, Nepal – Year One

Kathmandu Durbar Square, one of seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal
This entry is part 1 of 3 in the series Seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites of the Kathmandu Valley

Each time I arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal, I am awed by the kaleidoscope of silk saris that enliven its dusty streets, the canted brick buildings with old wooden doors painted in rainbow colors, and the stoic women vendors who patiently squat next to paltry piles of produce amidst the squalor. But I can only take … Read more

My Love-Hate Relationship With Kathmandu – Year Two

Boudhanath Stupa, the holiest Buddhist site in Nepal
This entry is part 2 of 3 in the series Seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites of the Kathmandu Valley

My second annual visit to Nepal’s capital city was less stressful. I knew what to expect and was familiar enough with the city to find my way around. This time I vowed to see all five remaining UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu that I had missed the previous year, beginning with Swayambhunath Buddhist Stupa. … Read more

My Love-Hate Relationship With Kathmandu – This Year I Was Almost Trampled to Death

Thousands of people cram into every square inch of the square
This entry is part 3 of 3 in the series Seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites of the Kathmandu Valley

At least one person dies each year at the Bisket Jatra Festival (Nepali New Year) in Bhaktapur, Nepal. This year, I was nearly one of them. Last year, I had planned to attend Bisket Jatra for two reasons: it is the most elaborate celebration of Nepali New Year in the entire country; more importantly it … Read more