Hole In The Donut Cultural Travel

Tequisquiapan, Geographic Center of Mexico?

Published May 25, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

On my quest to see a little more of the tiny but fascinating State of Queretaro, I boarded a confusing combination of buses in Bernal and Ezekiel Montes to travel to Tequisquiapan, Mexico. This tiny town’s claim to fame is that it is the geographic center of the country, a fact seemingly confirmed by a monument erected in a plaza near the main square, however Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, all towns located in the central highlands, dispute Tequisquiapan’s claim, each insisting that they are the geographic center of Mexico.

Monument marks Tequis as geographic center of Mexico

Regardless of whether or not it is the true geographic center of Mexico, the town is an undiscovered gem. Founded in 1551 by an Otomi Indian chief, it has been known as Tequisquiapan since 1656, an Nahuatl word meaning “place of waters and tequesquites (a mineral similar to salt).” Today the narrow cobblestone streets overhung with luscious boughs of Bougainvilla, colonial-era buildings with wrought iron window frames, and especially the Templo de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, an exquisite Neoclassical church that anchors the central Plaza Miguel Hidalgo, make Tequisquiapan an ideal choice for a tranquil weekend getaway.

Boougainvilla draped pedestrian street in Tequisquiapan

Templo de Santa Maria de la Asuncion

One of the main pleasures of a visit to Tequis is sitting in Plaza Miguel Hidalgo and enjoying the laid-back, almost sleepy rhythm of this village. A miniature passenger train toots shrilly as it circles the plaza loaded with delighted children, while parents watch from one of the many coffee shops, ice cream shops, and restaurants surrounding. Women in head scarves step into the church to offer midday prayers, while on the other side of the central fountain men congregate in the shade to play cards or have their shoes shined. Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

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Blogging Boomer Carnival #163 at LifeTwo

Published May 24, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

It’s time for another round of interesting info and fun facts from our baby boomer bloggers. This week, our host, LifeTwo, has put together brief descriptions of posts from nine different baby boomer writers who are discussing subjects ranging from pensioner playgrounds to late-in-life love affairs. Check it out and click the links provided to read the full content on each of the blogs.

Posted in Carnivals |

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You Can Get There from Here, But it Might Not Be Easy

Published May 23, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Mexico has the most amazing bus system I have ever seen, but it can also be the most confusing. Every city of size has a main bus station and they are called by many names: Centro de Autbuses, Cenrtal de Camiones, Terminal de Autobuses, Central Camionera, but use any of these phrases and everyone understands where you want to go. Leaving from any of these main stations was a simple process; I got in line, bought a ticket, and made my way to the correct waiting room (Sala). When I heard the departure announcement I lined up for my ticket to be checked, went to the correct bay, got a claim check for my luggage, boarded the bus, sat back, and relaxed.

Mexico City's North Terminal Bus Station, one of four that serve the city according to the points of the compass

However, when it was time to leave leave Bernal for Tequisquiapan, I had two choices: either return to Queretaro and catch a direct bus to Tequisquiapan, or find my way directly from Bernal to Tequisquiapan. With so much to see in Mexico it seemed senseless to repeat a route already traveled, thus I decided to try to figure out the bewildering system of taxi-vans, kombis, and colectivos that stream down the highways, hoping to end up in Tequisquiapan.

The manager of the hotel explained that there are no printed schedules and in many cases, no signs for bus stops; locals simply know by tradition where to stand and how often the buses pass by. But he claimed it was easy to get to Tequisquiapan.

“Take a taxi-van to “Ezekiel Montes. They pass by the hotel all day long,” he insisted

“Ezekiel Montes?”

“Yes, and then in Ezekiel Montes you get a bus to Tequis.” Sounded simple enough.

Though I had hoped to get final instructions about the exact location of the bus stop, when I left the next morning the front desk was unattended. Instead, I inquired about transport to Ezekiel Montes at the first open shop I passed and was told I could catch a van at the next corner. Dutifully I waited. Twenty minutes. Half an hour. More. But not a single taxi van drove by. Fortunately, three local women had gathered outside the corner grocer and I put the same question to them.

“Oh no, you must go up to the highway to catch the van.” I groaned. Loaded down with my Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

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HostelBookers.com Celebrates Their Low Price Guarantee with a Contest and Great Travel Prizes

Published May 22, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Because I often stay at hostels I was interested to learn some interesting facts about the differences in booking prices between the two largest hostel booking services on the Internet. A recent study by Reed Business Insight revealed that HostelBookers is, on average, over 8% cheaper than HostelWorld, and HostelBookers is now backing that claim up with a guarantee. If you find the same deal cheaper anywhere else, they will refund double the difference!

Travelex Cash Passport pre-loaded with £1,000

To celebrate this price promise they have launched a competition which will run over the next three weeks. Nine winners will take away some fantastic prizes, with three winners being announced every week between May 26th and June 9th. For the top prize HostelBookers has partnered with Travelex.co.uk to offer three lucky travelers the chance to win a Cash Passport pre-loaded with £1,000 (that’s British PoundsPanasonic camera, which equates to approximately $1434 U.S. dollars at today’s exchange rate).

Three entrants will win the second prize of a Panasonic Lumix TZ8 Camera, and three more will take away the third prize, a 32gb iPod touch. (Full details of the HostelBookers contest can be viewed here). Continue reading →

Posted in Contests |

Magical, Mystical Bernal de la Pena, Mexico

Published May 21, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

As I sat at the foot of La Pena, waiting for the light and sound show to begin, I concentrated on what I felt. Exceeded in height only by Gibraltar and Sugarloaf Mountain in Brazil, this third tallest monolithic rock in the world is believed to have mystical powers. Some say it exudes a magnetic force, others say its energy comes from giant Amethyst crystals buried deep within its core. Legend insists there is a hidden cave within la Pena where a giant snake sleeps; anyone who can get past the snake and into its secret lair will discover riches and learn the origin and destiny of the human race. What we do know for sure that this eroded volcanic plug was formed in the Jurassic period 180 million years ago, but a giant thumb of cooled magma does not explain the strange and mysterious things that regularly occur in the tiny town of Bernal.

The Pena - third tallest monolithic rock in the world - towers over tiny Bernal

Although I could never confirm the rumors, Bernal is reputed to be home to more centenarians than any other town in Mexico. I read one claim that the average life expectancy in Bernal is 94.5 years, and indeed many elderly residents still work every day in the artisan shops that surround Bernal’s lovely town square. At the edge of town is the Capilla de las Animas – literally the Chapel of the Lost Souls of Purgatory. Legend tells that a merchant who was being chased by robbers hid in the bushes at the site of the present day chapel and entrusted his safety to the souls of purgatory. When the robbers did not see him, the merchant built a church to honor the lost souls, who are today still seen wandering by night, their faces lit up by candles. Even more mysterious are the sightings of flying saucers in the area; if La Pena looks strangely familiar it may be because it strongly resembles the rock in Wyoming that was the sight of the film Close Encounters of the Third Kind, which drew speculation that these formations are pointers to extraterrestrial travelers.

Wedding at the Temple of San Sebastian Martir in the central square of Bernal

Moorish influenced Castillo is the City Hall

Typical street in Bernal, one of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos

Plaza de San Sebastian in Bernal, Mexico

I’d had my own mystical experience in Bernal. Earlier in the week, upon arriving in Queretaro, I was sitting up in bed writing, when I was struck with a heavy chest pain in the center of my breast bone. When it didn’t go away, I closed my laptop and laid down to rest, which seemed to help. Because I’d been carrying a heavy pack I assumed it was muscular, but the idea of a heart attack did cross my mind. And I was exhausted. I’d been traveling for about two months, flitting from place to place, moving every few days. It’s not an easy way to travel, especially when trying to manage a writing career simultaneously. By the next morning the pain was gone so I never gave it a second thought, but upon arriving in Bernal a dull throbbing ache had resumed and I felt completely drained of energy. Continue reading →

Posted in Mexico travel |

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Queretaro, Mexico – Both City and State Filled with Scenic Wonders

Published May 19, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

The City of Santiago de Queretaro surprised me. Of the 32 Mexican States, only five are smaller than the State of Queretaro, thus I had expected its capital city to be small and compact, but my bus drove through miles of suburbs sprawled across rolling hills before pulling into the outlying bus terminal. My taxi driver bemoaned the size of the city as well, explaining that just 20 years ago it was small enough to go everywhere by bike. The population of Queretaro (no one uses the full city name) exploded back in 1985, following the magnitude 8.1 earthquake that struck Mexico City, causing the deaths of about 10,000 people and serious damage. Many residents fled the nation’s capital and settled in Queretaro, located just 160 miles to the north.

One of dozens of outdoor sculptures scattered around the historic center of Queretaro

Despite the big city look and feel, I liked Queretaro. The city’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is renowned for its outstanding 17th and 18th century colonial architecture and beauty. The street plan is unusual in that it has kept the geometric plan of the Spanish conquistadors, yet incorporated the twisting alleys of the Indian quarters, many of which have been converted to pedestrian walkways and alleys lined with restaurants and handicraft shops.

As I wandered around the city center, it became apparent that art is an important cultural element in Queretaro. Young street musicians strum guitars and play classical selections on violins, theater arts students perform skits in the plazas, and the open spaces, alleys, and narrow lanes are decorated with an amazing array of outdoor sculpture.

Wandering is the very best way to discover this charming city, but to do so I needed sustenance. I started my days with a visit to the local candy shop, which specializes in regional specialties like burnt milk candy, and munched to my heart’s content as I explored Queretaro’s plazas, Viceroyalty houses, and scores of churches featuring architectural styles ranging from Baroque to Neoclassical.