Zagreb, Croatia – Where Life Imitates Art

I was being watched. I was certain of it. Each time the hairs on the back of my neck prickled, I spun around to confront my stalker, only to find empty space. Zagreb, in fact, was virtually empty. Just a few days earlier, I had been in the gorgeous coastal town of Rovinj, the first stop on a planned trip down Croatia’s Istrian and Dalmatian coasts. But temperatures of 100 degrees and shoulder-to-shoulder crowds of tourists soon had me rethinking my plan. Despite numerous opinions from fellow travelers that everything worth seeing in Croatia was on the coast, I headed inland to the capital city.

Heart of Zagreb, Bana J. Jelacica Square, is almost empty in the summer, as most Zagreb residents have fled to the coast for their annual holiday
Heart of Zagreb, Bana J. Jelacica Square, is almost empty in the summer, as most residents of the city have fled to the coast for their annual holiday

My route reversal was a stroke of genius. Not only was Zagreb an historic and lovely city, full of parks and more museums than I could see in a month, it was ten degrees cooler than the coast and virtually deserted. Everyone in the city had fled to the coast for their annual holiday.

Zagreb Cathedral in the Upper Town
Zagreb Cathedral in the Upper Town area of Zagreb, Croatia. Nary a soul to be seen in the dead of summer.
Saint Mark's Catholic Church, Prime Minister's Office and Parliament in the Upper Town of Zagreb, Croatia
Even the square that is home to Saint Mark’s Catholic Church, the Prime Minister’s Office, and Parliament was nearly devoid of people

Still, there was that unsettling sensation of being watched. The third time the hair stood up on the back of my neck, I turned around and found myself face-to-face with Nikolai Tesla. A giant-sized Tesla, in fact; just one of dozens of larger-than-life sculptures of artists, scientists, writers, poets, and inventors that are scattered around the city. I chuckled when I realized that, in the absence of actual people, I had been sensing the presence of these hulking figures.

One of the more prominent sculptures in Zagreb is this massive one of Nikolai Tesla
One of the more prominent sculptures in Zagreb is this massive one of Nikolai Tesla

Over the next few days I happily wandered the Upper and Lower Town areas of Zagreb, snooping out every one of Zagreb’s outdoor sculptures. Some, like Tesla, were names known to me. Others were unfamiliar, like Giorgio Giulio Clovio, a Croatian who is considered to be the greatest manuscript illuminator of the Italian High Renaissance, and Tin Ujevic, a famous Croatian poet.

Sculpture of Giorgio Giulio Clovio in front of Klovicevi Dvori Gallery
Sculpture of Giorgio Giulio Clovio in front of Klovicevi Dvori Gallery
Sculpture of Tin Ujevic, great Croatian poet and translator
Sculpture of Tin Ujevic, great Croatian poet and translator
Sculpture of Prigorje peasant woman at Dolac Market
Sculpture of Prigorje peasant woman at Dolac Market

Zagreb seemed a city where art imitates life until my final day of wandering. At Lortscak Tower, built atop remainder of old city walls, I did a double-take when a real live character dressed as an historic Croatian peasant washer woman smiled and explained the meaning of her traditional costume. Down the street on Strossmayer Promenade, I found a sculpture of a scrawny man reclining on a bench. On a real bench just a few feet away, a stick-thin man assumed the identical posture of the sculpture, and I realized that Zagreb is a city where life imitates art.

11 thoughts on “Zagreb, Croatia – Where Life Imitates Art”

  1. Hi Barbara,
    I liked you post and photos, they are all familiar to me. I live in Bosnia and Herzegovina – neighboring country to Croatia and I visited Zagreb several times. As you say it is lovely city during the summer but it is even lovelier during Christmas and New Year time with wonderful decorations and lights

    Reply
    • Hi Maja: How interesting. I would love to see the Christmas lights in Zagreb someday. I also visited BiH, and will be writing about those experiences as well (lovely, friendly people there), so stay tuned!

      Reply
      • Maja knows what she speaks of. Advent in Zagreb – and Advent Markets – have been listed the best in Europe 3 times running. Also, try to experience at least one Svi Sveti. November 1st is when Hrvats descend on cemeteries to pay their respects to their ancestors. At night the cemeteries are washed in candlelight. Many of course love the main cemetery Mirogoj Cemetery but for me, my heart will always be in the small, forgotten places where my ancestors rest deep in the earth 🙂 <3

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    • Just read your article as well, Andrea. It has much more in depth information than mine and I found it fascinating. Thanks so much for sending it along.

      Reply
  2. Croatia is such a wonderful place. It is a perfect place to spend holidays, the sculptures, museums all are amazing. After reading this post, I am eager to travel Croatia. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. I really enjoyed this post.

    Reply
    • You’re very welcome, Kanchan. Zagreb turned out to be one of my all-time favorite cities, and I’m so glad my article sent a message that it’s a wonderful destination.

      Reply

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