2010 May | Hole In The Donut Cultural Travel

Monthly Archives: May 2010

Pico de Orizaba Volcano – View from a Bus

Published May 31, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Within moments of the bus leaving the Mexico City terminal bound for Veracruz I was fast asleep. I’d been traveling hard, seeing sights and meeting people by day, cataloging photos and writing by night. An eight hour bus ride meant a welcome opportunity to catch up on sleep. Some hours later I awoke and was surprised to see what appeared to be pollution from Mexico City still floating above the flat horizon like a gray blanket. But there was also something else: a brilliant white point floated atop the layer of grit.

Pico de Orizaba volcano

I blinked a couple of times and rubbed the sleep out of my eyes, suspecting a mirage, but with every subsequent mile the snow-capped pinnacle grew clearer and more impressive, protruding effortlessly and suddenly from a flat plain. My map showed that this was Pico de Orizaba volcano, the highest mountain peak in Mexico, third highest in North America, and second most prominent volcanic peak in the world after Africa’s Mount Kilimanjaro. It is considered an active volcano, although it hasn’t erupted since 1687. Continue reading →

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Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged blogsherpa, central gulf coast, climbing, hiking, Mexico, mountains, National Park, Orizaba, Pico de Orizaba, Travel, volcano |

22 Comments

Ancient Ruins in Teotihuacan, Mexico – View from the Top

Published May 29, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Sweat dripped from my scalp into my eyes, ran in rivulets down my cheeks and pooled in the hollow of my neck. A merciless sun beat down on my bare head, laughing at my attempts to staunch the flow with the few measly tissues left in my backpack. I stood atop the Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacan, looking down upon ruins stretching far into the distance, wondering how an ancient civilization ever flourished on this God forsaken, barren plateau, and marveling at the massive structures they were able to erect without the assistance of machines.

Can’t view the above YouTube video of the ancient ruins at Teotihuacan, Mexico? Click here.

As I descended the steep stone steps, I glanced down the wide avenue leading to the Pyramid of the Moon. Despite oppressive heat and torpid air, I knew I would also climb this sister pyramid, if only because it was there.

Can’t view the above slide show of the ancient ruins at Teotihuacan, Mexico? Click here.

Late in the day, having survived two steep climbs, I hurried to the far end of the park before it closed to see the final pyramid, the Temple of Quetzalcoatl. I debated whether or not I needed to climb it for about a nanosecond before turning for the exit. Maybe later I’d kick myself for not having stood atop this third ruin, but I was out of energy and out of kleenex.

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Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged ancient cultures, Aztec, blogsherpa, Maya, Mayan, Mexico, north of mexico city, pyramides, pyramids, ruins, Temple of the Moon, Temple of the Sun, Templo de la Luna, Templo del Sol, Teootihuacan, Toltec |

14 Comments

Living the Tranquil Life in Teotihuacan, Mexico

Published May 27, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Heat from the asphalt permeated the thick soles of my hiking boots and perspiration beaded on my brow as I walked from the town of San Juan de Teotihuacan to the ancient ruins of Teotihuacan. The owner of the inn where I was staying said it was a 15 minute walk, yet it had been 20 minutes since I set out and still there was no sign of the entrance, thus I started asking for assistance. One young man said the park was just a short distance ahead, while an elderly man shook his head and warned, “It’s three quarters of an hour more.” But there was no turning back now; at least I knew I was headed in the right direction.

Shedding my backpack to peel off my long sleeve shirt and tie it around my clammy waist, I noticed movement out of the corner of my eye. A herd of unattended sheep crossed the highway, scattering along the shoulder behind me in search of fresh grass. A bit further along, the smell of dead animal assaulted my nose, followed by the unmistakable odor of a chicken farm.

Suddenly, the bramble of bushes on my right gave way to a green pasture where a herd of gently baa-ing sheep floated like fluffy cotton balls. Their protector stood nearby, sheltering in the shade of a gnarled tree.

A pastoral scene on the walk to the Mayan ruins at Teotihuacan

“Buenas dias,” I greeted him. A gap-toothed smile flashed beneath his wide-brimmed straw hat as he returned my greeting.

“Puedo tomar una photo?” I asked. Can I take a photo?

“But I would break your camera, this old face is so ugly.”

I shook my head no. “Your face has character, like mine. And you have a radiant spirit.”

“Ah, this is because I live la vida tranquila – the tranquil life – the life of my sheep.”

Beaming, Gerardo beckoned me into his pasture. I found a gap in the chain link fence and followed him down as he told me about a baby ewe that he had been bottle-feeding. Its mother had been sick and wouldn’t graze, so she was not producing milk and refused to let the little one suckle.

The baby ewe pokes its head out of the clump of trees and comes to the sheep herder's call.

“Chica, ven aca,” he called. “Donde estas, chiquita?” Little girl, come here. Where are you, little one?

He continued calling as we walked toward a clump of trees and soon a tiny ewe poked its head out of the bushes and walked up to Gerardo. Snatching her up in his arms, he carried the ewe back to me. The baby Continue reading →

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Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged blogsherpa, culture, herder, Mexico, north of mexico city, pastoral, pasture, pyramides, pyramids, ruins, sheep, sheepherder, sheepherding, Teootihuacan, tranquil, walking |

26 Comments

Tequisquiapan, Geographic Center of Mexico?

Published May 25, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

On my quest to see a little more of the tiny but fascinating State of Queretaro, I boarded a confusing combination of buses in Bernal and Ezekiel Montes to travel to Tequisquiapan, Mexico. This tiny town’s claim to fame is that it is the geographic center of the country, a fact seemingly confirmed by a monument erected in a plaza near the main square, however Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, all towns located in the central highlands, dispute Tequisquiapan’s claim, each insisting that they are the geographic center of Mexico.

Monument marks Tequis as geographic center of Mexico

Regardless of whether or not it is the true geographic center of Mexico, the town is an undiscovered gem. Founded in 1551 by an Otomi Indian chief, it has been known as Tequisquiapan since 1656, an Nahuatl word meaning “place of waters and tequesquites (a mineral similar to salt).” Today the narrow cobblestone streets overhung with luscious boughs of Bougainvilla, colonial-era buildings with wrought iron window frames, and especially the Templo de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, an exquisite Neoclassical church that anchors the central Plaza Miguel Hidalgo, make Tequisquiapan an ideal choice for a tranquil weekend getaway.

Boougainvilla draped pedestrian street in Tequisquiapan

Templo de Santa Maria de la Asuncion

One of the main pleasures of a visit to Tequis is sitting in Plaza Miguel Hidalgo and enjoying the laid-back, almost sleepy rhythm of this village. A miniature passenger train toots shrilly as it circles the plaza loaded with delighted children, while parents watch from one of the many coffee shops, ice cream shops, and restaurants surrounding. Women in head scarves step into the church to offer midday prayers, while on the other side of the central fountain men congregate in the shade to play cards or have their shoes shined. Continue reading →

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Posted in Mexico travel |

Tagged Bernal de la Pena, blogsherpa, culture, geographic center, Mexico, norther central highlands, Posada de Tequisquiapan, Queretaro, Queretaro State, Tequisquiapan, Travel |

4 Comments

Blogging Boomer Carnival #163 at LifeTwo

Published May 24, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

It’s time for another round of interesting info and fun facts from our baby boomer bloggers. This week, our host, LifeTwo, has put together brief descriptions of posts from nine different baby boomer writers who are discussing subjects ranging from pensioner playgrounds to late-in-life love affairs. Check it out and click the links provided to read the full content on each of the blogs.

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Posted in Carnivals |

Tagged Baby Boomers, blogging boomers carnival, LifeTwo, midlife |

7 Comments

You Can Get There from Here, But it Might Not Be Easy

Published May 23, 2010 | By Barbara Weibel

Mexico has the most amazing bus system I have ever seen, but it can also be the most confusing. Every city of size has a main bus station and they are called by many names: Centro de Autbuses, Cenrtal de Camiones, Terminal de Autobuses, Central Camionera, but use any of these phrases and everyone understands where you want to go. Leaving from any of these main stations was a simple process; I got in line, bought a ticket, and made my way to the correct waiting room (Sala). When I heard the departure announcement I lined up for my ticket to be checked, went to the correct bay, got a claim check for my luggage, boarded the bus, sat back, and relaxed.

Mexico City's North Terminal Bus Station, one of four that serve the city according to the points of the compass

However, when it was time to leave leave Bernal for Tequisquiapan, I had two choices: either return to Queretaro and catch a direct bus to Tequisquiapan, or find my way directly from Bernal to Tequisquiapan. With so much to see in Mexico it seemed senseless to repeat a route already traveled, thus I decided to try to figure out the bewildering system of taxi-vans, kombis, and colectivos that stream down the highways, hoping to end up in Tequisquiapan.

The manager of the hotel explained that there are no printed schedules and in many cases, no signs for bus stops; locals simply know by tradition where to stand and how often the buses pass by. But he claimed it was easy to get to Tequisquiapan.

“Take a taxi-van to “Ezekiel Montes. They pass by the hotel all day long,” he insisted

“Ezekiel Montes?”

“Yes, and then in Ezekiel Montes you get a bus to Tequis.” Sounded simple enough.

Though I had hoped to get final instructions about the exact location of the bus stop, when I left the next morning the front desk was unattended. Instead, I inquired about transport to Ezekiel Montes at the first open shop I passed and was told I could catch a van at the next corner. Dutifully I waited. Twenty minutes. Half an hour. More. But not a single taxi van drove by. Fortunately, three local women had gathered outside the corner grocer and I put the same question to them.

“Oh no, you must go up to the highway to catch the van.” I groaned. Loaded down with my Continue reading →